Tibet rules: Difference between revisions

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* Since we have so few tiles, we're not going to bother with the rituals of wall-building quite yet. To start each hand, just shuffle up all the tiles face-down in the center of the table, and draw straight from the pool.
* Since we have so few tiles, we're not going to bother with the rituals of wall-building quite yet. To start each hand, just shuffle up all the tiles face-down in the center of the table, and draw straight from the pool.
* For the time being, having all four of the same tile in hand does not hold any special significance. Quads or ''kan'' will be introduced much later, after the end of the standard Tibet rules path.
* Only the most recent discard can be used to call on a win. You can't go back to a discard from previous turns to win!
* Only the most recent discard can be used to call on a win. You can't go back to a discard from previous turns to win!
* If the person with the first turn (the dealer) won the hand, they get to stay as dealer for the next hand. Otherwise, the first player moves counter-clockwise, to the player on the previous dealer's right.
* If the person with the first turn (the dealer) won the hand, they get to stay as dealer for the next hand. Otherwise, the first player moves counter-clockwise, to the player on the previous dealer's right.
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== Increasing complexity ==
== Increasing complexity ==
Once the players are comfortable with four-tile mahjong hands, increase the base hand size to seven tiles. In these rules, the goal is to create a winning hand of eight tiles: two sets (each either a sequence or triplet) and one pair. Since we're still working with a single suit, there are some tricky ''tenpai'' patterns that can result.
Once the players are comfortable with four-tile mahjong hands, increase the base hand size to seven tiles. Under these rules, the goal is to create a winning hand of eight tiles: two sets (each either a sequence or triplet) and one pair. Since we're still working with a single suit, there are some tricky ''tenpai'' patterns that can result.


Examples of ''tenpai'' hands:
Examples of ''tenpai'' hands:
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* {{machi|pattern = 2345777p |tilewaits = 256p}} (a complex combination wait: with a 777 triplet, the remaining 2345 is the dual single pattern. But with a 77 pair and 234 sequence, the remaining 57 can be completed by filling in the 6.)
* {{machi|pattern = 2345777p |tilewaits = 256p}} (a complex combination wait: with a 777 triplet, the remaining 2345 is the dual single pattern. But with a 77 pair and 234 sequence, the remaining 57 can be completed by filling in the 6.)


Once players are comfortable with playing with seven-tile hands, the next step to take is to introduce a second numeric suit: the bamboo tiles. Note that the 1 is indicated by a bird (usually a peafowl or sparrow depending on design), and the 8's bamboo are arranged in an M/W pattern.
'''Side Note''': If you are teaching a full table of four players, then with seven-tile hands, there will only be eight tiles left over after each player draws their starting hand (36 - 4 * 7 = 8). This lack of tiles can create a somewhat unsatisfactory game experience, so you may want to introduce the next step at the same time you move up to seven-tile hands.
 
Once players are comfortable with playing with seven-tile hands, the next step to take is to introduce a second numeric suit: the bamboo tiles. Like the circles, the bamboo tiles are numbered from 1 to 9, with four copies of each tile. Note that the 1 is indicated by a bird (usually a peafowl or sparrow depending on design), and the 8's bamboo are arranged in an M/W pattern.


   {{ #mjt:123456789s }}  
   {{ #mjt:123456789s }}  


Pairs, sequences, and triplets cannot be made by "mixing" suits -- each set or pair can only be made from a single suit. However, the hand as a whole can have sets or the pair in multiple suits. In practice, despite there being more possibilities for hands, this will be easier than the single-suited, seven-tile hand game. A second suit means that it's less likely for complex group patterns, which makes it easier to figure out which of your tiles will end up in each set or pair of the completed hand. There's an argument that can be made as well that you can also start here, at the two-suit, seven-tile game, as it also provides a clearer distinction between a set and the pair, since the final hand will have a different number of each type of hand element.
Pairs, sequences, and triplets cannot be made by "mixing" suits -- each set or pair can only be made from a single suit. However, the hand as a whole can have sets or the pair in multiple suits. In practice, despite there being more possibilities for hands, this will be easier than the single-suited, seven-tile hand game. A second suit means that it's less likely for complex group patterns, which makes it easier to figure out which of your tiles will end up in each set or pair of the completed hand. There's an argument that can be made that you can start teaching from here, at the two-suit, seven-tile game, as it also provides a clearer distinction between a set and the pair, since the final hand will have a different number of each type of hand element.


Regardless, once players are comfortable at this level, the next step is to increase the hand size to ten tiles. A completed hand will have eleven tiles, consisting of three sets of three tiles, and one pair.  
Regardless, once players are comfortable at this level, the next step is to increase the hand size to ten tiles. A completed hand will have eleven tiles, consisting of three sets and one pair.  


== Approaching the complete game ==
== Approaching the complete game ==
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=== Dragon tiles and calling for triplets (pon) ===
=== Dragon tiles and calling for triplets (pon) ===


As an alternative to introducing the characters suit to players, you can instead introduce them to the dragons first:
As an alternative to introducing the characters suit to players, you can instead introduce them to the dragons first. There are three types of dragon, identified by their unique faces. Understanding the meaning of these tiles is not important, you can just treat them as symbols. Due to this fact, introducing them first can push back the need for outside reference cards and keep the flow of learning moving forward.


   {{ #mjt:567z }}
   {{ #mjt:567z }}


Since understanding the meaning of these tiles is not necessary, this can push back the need for outside reference cards which might take away from the flow of learning. The main thing to note for these tiles is that they can only form triplets and pairs. You can't take one tile of each type and make a set; it's as invalid as trying to make a sequency by mixing up tiles of different numeric suits.
The main thing to note for these tiles is that they can only form triplets and pairs. You can't take one tile of each type and make a set; it's as invalid as trying to make a sequence by mixing up tiles of different numeric suits.


'''Side note''': Since there are only twelve tiles added with the dragons, you might still want to hold off on going from ten-tile hands to the full thirteen until the characters numeric suit is introduced.
'''Side note''': Since there are only twelve tiles added with the dragons, you might still want to hold off on going from ten-tile hands to the full thirteen until the characters numeric suit is introduced.
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The procedure after making a ''chii'' call is just like with ''pon''. Set aside all three tiles, turning the called tile on the left. Then, discard a tile and turns continue counter-clockwise. In the example above, we've called the 3 discarded by the person on our left to complete a sequence with the 24 that we had in our hand. It's important (for the full Riichi ruleset) that the tile we called be oriented towards the player we called it from, even if the set-aside set looks "out of order".
The procedure after making a ''chii'' call is just like with ''pon''. Set aside all three tiles, turning the called tile on the left. Then, discard a tile and turns continue counter-clockwise. In the example above, we've called the 3 discarded by the person on our left to complete a sequence with the 24 that we had in our hand. It's important (for the full Riichi ruleset) that the tile we called be oriented towards the player we called it from, even if the set-aside set looks "out of order".


It is possible for a tile to be claimed by someone wanting to call ''pon'' at the same time as ''chii'' (e.g. a 333 triplet of bamboo in the example). If two players want the same tile, the ''pon'' caller gets priority and their call goes through. (That is, ''pon'' > ''chii''.) For that reason, if you want to call ''chii'', it's a good idea to wait a second or two before making your call, just in case someone else wants to make a ''pon'' call. If you've given enough time for someone else to call, you should be free to claim your tile without needing to take things back.
It is possible for a tile to be claimed by someone wanting to call ''pon'' at the same time as ''chii'' (e.g. a 333 triplet of bamboo in the example). If two players want the same tile, the ''pon'' caller gets priority and their call goes through. (In other words, ''pon'' > ''chii''.) For that reason, if you want to call ''chii'', it's a good idea to wait a second or two before making your call, just in case someone else wants to make a ''pon'' call. If you've given enough time for someone else to call, you should be free to claim your tile without needing to take things back.




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