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Tile efficiency: Difference between revisions
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'''Tile efficiency''' refers to the speed of '''hand development'''. Having better tile efficiency means that the hand is more likely to complete, and is thus faster on average. | '''Tile efficiency''' refers to the speed of '''hand development'''. Having better tile efficiency means that the hand is more likely to complete, and is thus faster on average. | ||
Only one person can win per round, and a hand of any value can win. Therefore, learning how to optimize tile efficiency is important to improving at riichi mahjong. Sometimes, it may not be best to go for the maximum efficiency play (e.g. slowing the hand to go for a yaku), but strong players should know how to | Only one person can win per round, and a hand of any value can win. Therefore, learning how to optimize tile efficiency is important to improving at riichi mahjong. Sometimes, it may not be best to go for the maximum efficiency play (e.g. slowing the hand to go for a yaku), but strong players should know how to maximize tile efficiency when needed. | ||
==Tile categories== | ==Tile categories== | ||
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Isolated tiles, also known as "lone" or "floating" tiles, are those with no neighbors. A tile is isolated when there is no tiles numerically or categorically adjacent. Therefore, they may not be used for [[naki|tile calls]]. | Isolated tiles, also known as "lone" or "floating" tiles, are those with no neighbors. A tile is isolated when there is no tiles numerically or categorically adjacent. Therefore, they may not be used for [[naki|tile calls]]. | ||
These tiles are not very useful, so they are often discarded first. However, an isolated tile may be used to "upgrade" the hand. For example, an isolated 5 can be | These tiles are not very useful, so they are often discarded first. However, an isolated tile may be used to "upgrade" the hand. For example, an isolated 5 can be kept to try and improve the hand's shape. An isolated [[dora]] can be kept to increase the value of the hand. An isolated [[yakuhai]] can be paired and then [[pon]]'d. | ||
===Taatsu=== | ===Taatsu=== | ||
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==Important concepts== | ==Important concepts== | ||
The general ideas of tile efficiency are: | The general ideas of tile efficiency are: | ||
*Discard the tiles that have the fewest amount of upgrades | *Discard the tiles that contribute the least to tile acceptance / have the fewest amount of upgrades | ||
*Try to get a good wait at [[tenpai]] | *Try to get a good wait at [[tenpai]] | ||
*Prefer ryanmen over other types of joints | *Prefer ryanmen over other types of joints | ||
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|} | |} | ||
Therefore, for pure tile acceptance, a lone 3/4/5/6/7 > lone 2/8 > lone 1/9 > lone guest winds. Therefore, when discarding tiles that are unrelated to your hand, you should normally discard guest winds, then 1s/9s, then 2s/8s. | Therefore, for pure tile acceptance, a lone 3/4/5/6/7 > lone 2/8 > lone 1/9 > lone guest winds. Therefore, when discarding tiles that are unrelated to your hand, you should normally discard guest winds, then 1s/9s, then 2s/8s. When discarding tiles, you should also keep in mind mechanics like [[furiten]] and [[dora]]. With [[red fives]] in play, 4/6 become stronger than 3/7 due to being able to create ryanmen with a red five. | ||
[[Yakuhai]] are a special case. Because they can be [[pon]]'d to instantly gain a yaku and a group, they are more valuable when these conditions are met: 1. the hand would not have any yaku if opened, 2. the hand does not have an obvious "4 groups + 1 pair" yet, and 3. creating a triplet is possible (less than 2 copies are visible). In an average starting hand, they are more valuable than 1/9 but less important than 2/8. Yakuhai are a bit stronger in [[tonpuusen]] due to its faster paced nature. | [[Yakuhai]] are a special case. Because they can be [[pon]]'d to instantly gain a yaku and a group, they are more valuable when these conditions are met: 1. the hand would not have any yaku if opened, 2. the hand does not have an obvious "4 groups + 1 pair" yet, and 3. creating a triplet is possible (less than 2 copies are visible). In an average starting hand, they are more valuable than 1/9 but less important than 2/8. Yakuhai are a bit stronger in [[tonpuusen]] due to its faster paced nature. | ||
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===Five-block theory=== | ===Five-block theory=== | ||
"Five-block theory" states that a standard winning hand has five "blocks" - four groups + one pair. Each joint and sequence in the hand is considered a block. | "Five-block theory" states that a standard winning hand has five "blocks" - four groups + one pair. Each joint and sequence in the hand is considered a block. Pairs are also considered a block, since they can be turned into a triplet. When a hand has 6 blocks, one of them will eventually need to be discarded. Thus, it is good to build hands with 5 blocks in mind (i.e., having 6+ blocks is redundant). | ||
Example hand split into blocks: | Example hand split into blocks: | ||
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*A lone {{#mjt:4s}} | *A lone {{#mjt:4s}} can be turned into a joint/pair with {{#mjt:23456s}}. A lone {{#mjt:1s}} can be turned into a joint/pair {{#mjt:123s}}. Therefore, if you have {{#mjt:14s}} in your hand, the {{#mjt:1s}} is extra bad, since it only adds 1-sou to the joint acceptance (making the tile just slightly better than a guest wind). | ||
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If you have 4 pairs you might want to consider [[chiitoitsu]], but if a sequence or triplet forms, you should probably discard a pair and go for a normal hand. At 5 pairs, you're at 1-shanten for chiitoitsu, so you should likely go for that. | If you have 4 pairs you might want to consider [[chiitoitsu]], but if a sequence or triplet forms, you should probably discard a pair and go for a normal hand. At 5 pairs, you're at 1-shanten for chiitoitsu, so you should likely go for that. | ||
==4+ tile complex | ==4+ tile complex shapes== | ||
These shapes are made out of 4+ tiles. | |||
===Sequence + | ===Sequence + sequential tile=== | ||
A nobetan is a "sequence of 4 tiles": | A nobetan is a "sequence of 4 tiles": | ||
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*{{#mjt:47p}} to create a pair. ({{#mjt:44567p}}) | *{{#mjt:47p}} to create a pair. ({{#mjt:44567p}}) | ||
In other words, it is an ''extremely strong'' floating tile. The ryanmen acceptance is about twice that of a normal 4 or 7! Therefore, keeping this shape is very powerful if your hand's joints are not entirely composed out of ryanmen-or-better. It's also great to keep if you need a pair (even if | In other words, it is an ''extremely strong'' floating tile. The ryanmen acceptance is about twice that of a normal 4 or 7! Therefore, keeping this shape is very powerful if your hand's joints are not entirely composed out of ryanmen-or-better. It's also great to keep if you need a pair (even if your hand has all ryanmens). | ||
Note: When this shape contains a terminal tile (1 or 9), it becomes much worse. It's still good if you need a pair, but the ryanmen acceptance is | Note: When this shape contains a terminal tile (1 or 9), it becomes much worse. It's still good if you need a pair, but the ryanmen acceptance is halved, equal to a regular floating tile. | ||
===Sequence + | ===Sequence + middle tile=== | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
! align=center| Bulging | ! align=center| Bulging | ||
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*{{#mjt:5p}} to create a pair. ({{#mjt:456p}} + {{#mjt:55p}}) | *{{#mjt:5p}} to create a pair. ({{#mjt:456p}} + {{#mjt:55p}}) | ||
There's no kanchan, so the acceptance is slightly worse than a nobetan. However, the ryanmen acceptance is still about twice that of normal floating tiles. Because this shape nearly guarantees a ryanmen when accepting a tile, it's great if you're going for [[pinfu]]. The chance for [[iipeikou]] also helps. If | There's no ability to create a kanchan, so the acceptance is slightly worse than a nobetan. However, the ryanmen acceptance is still about twice that of normal floating tiles. Because this shape nearly guarantees a ryanmen when accepting a tile, it's great if you're going for [[pinfu]]. The chance for [[iipeikou]] also helps. If your hand's joints are already ryanmen-or-better, there's not much need to keep the bulging shape intact (here, discard the middle tile). | ||
Note: It's good to have a pair when you have a bulging shape. Also, like the nobetan, this shape becomes much worse if it contains a terminal tile. | Note: It's good to have a pair when you have a bulging shape. Also, like the nobetan, this shape becomes much worse if it contains a terminal tile. | ||
===Extended | ===Extended ryankan=== | ||
An extended ryankan is basically a ryankan with a sequence in the middle. | An extended ryankan is basically a ryankan with a sequence in the middle. | ||
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* A {{#mjt:245679p}} can be split into ({{#mjt:24p}} + {{#mjt:567p}} + {{#mjt:9p}}) or ({{#mjt:2p}} + {{#mjt:456p}} + {{#mjt:79p}}). It combines 2 kanchan shapes, so it is essentially the same as ryankan. | |||
: It accepts {{#mjt:3p}} or {{#mjt:8p}} to complete the 2nd sequence. Drawing a {{#mjt:5p}} or {{#mjt:6p}} upgrades it to a ryanmen. | |||
* A {{#mjt:455679p}} can be seen as ({{#mjt:456p}} + {{#mjt:79p}}) or ({{#mjt:45p}} + {{#mjt:67p}} + {{#mjt:9p}}). | |||
: It accepts {{#mjt:368p}} to complete a second sequence. | |||
==Yaku== | ==Yaku== | ||
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[[Sakigiri]] is the practice of discarding dangerous tiles before opponents reach tenpai. Often, the term "sakigiri" means sacrificing tile efficiency for the sake of better defense. | [[Sakigiri]] is the practice of discarding dangerous tiles before opponents reach tenpai. Often, the term "sakigiri" means sacrificing tile efficiency for the sake of better defense. | ||
Even when going for maximum efficiency, it's good to know the | Even when going for maximum efficiency, it's good to know the idea behind sakagiri. Specifically, when two tiles are equally useless, you should discard the tile that is more dangerous first. Usually the more dangerous tile is the tile closer to the middle. | ||
* {{#mjt:24m12345p5789s22z}} Draw: {{#mjt:4s}} | * {{#mjt:24m12345p5789s22z}} Draw: {{#mjt:4s}} | ||