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Tile efficiency: Difference between revisions
→Basic Theory
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Note: when measuring tile acceptance in actual games, it is important to note the amount of tiles available to draw. Any tile discarded, used in your hand, used in an opponents call, or in the dora indicators can no longer be drawn, which affects the hand's tile acceptance. For example, a 67-pin ryanmen joint normally has an acceptance of 8 (four 5-pins; four 8-pins). However, if all four 5-pin and three of the 8-pin are discarded, the wait effectively has an acceptance of 1 tile. | Note: when measuring tile acceptance in actual games, it is important to note the amount of tiles available to draw. Any tile discarded, used in your hand, used in an opponents call, or in the dora indicators can no longer be drawn, which affects the hand's tile acceptance. For example, a 67-pin ryanmen joint normally has an acceptance of 8 (four 5-pins; four 8-pins). However, if all four 5-pin and three of the 8-pin are discarded, the wait effectively has an acceptance of 1 tile. | ||
== | ==Important concepts== | ||
===Five-block theory=== | ===Five-block theory=== | ||
"Five-block theory" states that a standard winning hand has five "blocks" - four groups + one pair. Each joint in the hand can be turned into a block. Since pairs can turned into triplets, each pair is also a block. When a hand has 6 blocks, one of them will eventually need to be discarded. Thus, it is good to build hands with 5 blocks in mind | "Five-block theory" states that a standard winning hand has five "blocks" - four groups + one pair. Each joint in the hand can be turned into a block. Since pairs can turned into triplets, each pair is also a block. When a hand has 6 blocks, one of them will eventually need to be discarded. Thus, it is good to build hands with 5 blocks in mind (e.g. 6+ blocks is redundant). | ||
Example 2-shanten hands: | Example 2-shanten hands: | ||
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Going from 1-shanten to tenpai is | Going from 1-shanten to tenpai is the slowest part of the hand. Therefore, it's better to improve tile efficiency at 1-shanten than 2-shanten - the returns are bigger. In this example, the 5-block hand is 15% worse (24/28 tiles) at 2-shanten, but 25% better (20/16 tiles) at 1-shanten. | ||
For this reason, aiming for 5-blocks is overall better for tile efficiency. | |||
*That being said, ''having 6 blocks is better than 5 blocks with 2 useless isolated tiles''. A 6th block is redundant, but better than useless. Don't be afraid to have 6 blocks for a bit. When you have excess blocks, you can discard one when: | |||
**You can upgrade one of your joints (e.g. turning a 45 ryanmen joint into a 445 complex joint). | |||
**You enter 1-shanten. | |||
*When discarding the 6th block, discard the weakest (least tile acceptance) block you have. For example, if deciding between a penchan and ryanmen, discard the penchan, unless the ryanmen has less available tiles. | |||
*You may want to keep 6 blocks when aiming for a yaku, such as [[pinfu]] or [[sanshoku]]. E.g. keeping a kanchan so that you have a chance to draw into sanshoku. | |||
==Yaku== | ==Yaku== | ||