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Defense: Difference between revisions
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Defense in [[Japanese mahjong]] means to '''avoid dealing into other players' hands by not discarding winning tiles'''. Defense is an important skill, especially when other players call [[riichi]] and/or have a high scoring hand. All else equal, a player with a lower "[[ron|deal in rate]]" will have a higher chance of winning the game. | Defense in [[Japanese mahjong]] means to '''avoid dealing into other players' hands by not discarding winning tiles'''. Defense is an important skill, especially when other players call [[riichi]] and/or have a high scoring hand. All else equal, a player with a lower "[[ron|deal-in rate]]" will have a higher chance of winning the game. | ||
== Overview == | |||
[[Image:Last discard.png|thumb|250px|right|[http://tenhou.net/0/?log=2014082412gm-0089-0000-5b20755a&tw=2&ts=9 Choosing the proper discard] (or the wrong one) may determine the result of many games.]] | |||
Defense focuses on finding safe tiles, or tiles that other players cannot win with. | |||
Defense is part of the game's learning curve. Typically, beginners may not be aware of defense, as guides often focus on general [[tile efficiency|hand development]] and memorization of [[yaku]]. In the early stages of learning, a player may prioritize winning, since winning gives points. This is to some extent true, since you'll need to win at least one hand to finish first. However, it it not necessary to win every single hand to win a game. | Defense is part of the game's learning curve. Typically, beginners may not be aware of defense, as guides often focus on general [[tile efficiency|hand development]] and memorization of [[yaku]]. In the early stages of learning, a player may prioritize winning, since winning gives points. This is to some extent true, since you'll need to win at least one hand to finish first. However, it it not necessary to win every single hand to win a game. | ||
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== Safe tiles == | == Safe tiles == | ||
Defense focuses on finding . These are discarded tiles that opponents cannot [[ron|win off of]]. Players should take into account all visible tiles, including tiles in discard piles, the dora indicators, tiles in your own hand, and any called tiles. | |||
Defense focuses on finding | |||
Japanese mahjong offers players the ability to determine, deduce, and infer safe tiles. Players may show threats you may want to defend against, such as [[riichi]] declarations or particularly valuable open hands. | Japanese mahjong offers players the ability to determine, deduce, and infer safe tiles. Players may show threats you may want to defend against, such as [[riichi]] declarations or particularly valuable open hands. | ||
== Techniques to find safe tiles == | == Techniques to find safe tiles == | ||
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{{main|Suji}} | {{main|Suji}} | ||
'''Suji''' | '''Suji''' takes advantage of the furiten rule and uses it to eliminate the most common type of wait. | ||
Suji states that, '''when a number tile is safe, other tiles that are 3-apart become safer.''' This is because a [[ryanmen]] wait, a two-sided wait to complete a sequence (e.g. {23} waiting for 1 or 4), is the most frequent wait in the game. A ryanmen always waits on tiles in an interval of 3, such as 1-4 or 4-7. Therefore, if a 4-pin is safe against a player, the 1-pin and 7-pin become safer against that player. Neither 1 or 7 is perfectly safe, but are significantly safer than normal. | |||
There are three major intervals: 1-4-7, 2-5-8, and 3-6-9. These intervals of 3 are called "suji intervals". | |||
It is important to note that the middle tiles (4, 5, 6) require two tiles to be considered true suji. | It is important to note that the middle tiles (4, 5, 6) require two tiles to be considered true suji. This is because the 4 is part of two suji intervals: 1-4 and 4-7. If a 1 is discarded, a player could still have a 4-7 ryanmen. The 4 is only full suji if ''both'' 1 and 7 are safe. | ||
Some suji are safer than others: | Some suji are safer than others: | ||
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*Suji 2 and 8 are the next safest. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, or [[kanchan]]. | *Suji 2 and 8 are the next safest. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, or [[kanchan]]. | ||
*Suji 3 and 7 are the most dangerous, though still reasonably safe. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, kanchan, or [[penchan]]. | *Suji 3 and 7 are the most dangerous, though still reasonably safe. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, kanchan, or [[penchan]]. | ||
*"Full" suji 4, 5, and 6 are about as safe as suji 2 and 8. "Half" suji 4, 5, and 6 are not safe. | *"Full" suji 4, 5, and 6 are about as safe as suji 2 and 8. "Half" suji 4, 5, and 6 are as safe as a non-suji 2 (not safe). | ||
**Note: Full suji is when both suji interval tiles are safe. Half suji is when only one suji interval tile is safe. So a 1 being safe makes 4 half suji; both 1 and 7 being safe makes 4 full suji. | **Note: Full suji is when both suji interval tiles are safe. Half suji is when only one suji interval tile is safe. So a 1 being safe makes 4 half suji; both 1 and 7 being safe makes 4 full suji. | ||
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{{main|Kabe}} | {{main|Kabe}} | ||
Kabe is a tactic similar to suji. If all four copies of a tile are visible, then it is impossible to have | Kabe is a tactic similar to suji. If all four copies of a tile are visible, then it is impossible to have certain types of sequence wait on certain tiles nearby. | ||
For example, if you can see all four copies of 3-pin, then 1-pin and 2-pin cannot possibly be part of a sequence wait. This is because no opponent can possibly have a 23 or 34 shape, because no opponent can have a 3 in the first place. | For example, if you can see all four copies of 3-pin, then 1-pin and 2-pin cannot possibly be part of a sequence wait. This is because no opponent can possibly have a 23 or 34 shape, because no opponent can have a 3 in the first place. | ||
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* Number of safe tiles in hand: If you have no reasonably safe tiles to discard, you may have no option but to attack. You can fold later if safe tiles are revealed. | * Number of safe tiles in hand: If you have no reasonably safe tiles to discard, you may have no option but to attack. You can fold later if safe tiles are revealed. | ||
* Turn count (Number of safe tile types available): As more tile types become safe, the more dangerous the other tiles become (see [[Suji#Suji counting|Suji counting]] for more detials). Therefore, as the game progresses, you should be more willing to fold. The longer the game goes on, the more safe tiles are revealed, and thus the more dangerous it is to push. | * Turn count (Number of safe tile types available): As more tile types become safe, the more dangerous the other tiles become (see [[Suji#Suji counting|Suji counting]] for more detials). Therefore, as the game progresses, you should be more willing to fold. The longer the game goes on, the more safe tiles are revealed, and thus the more dangerous it is to push. | ||
==Sakigiri== | |||
{{main|Sakigiri}} | |||
'''Sakigiri''' is the act of discarding tiles before they become dangerous. | |||
In general, tiles are safer when discarded earlier; if an opponent isn't in [[tenpai]] yet, they can't win. Sakigiri means discarding a potentially-dangerous tile early, even if it would come at the cost of [[tile efficiency|hand speed]]. This technique is best used when you don't care about winning (e.g. you have a cheap + slow hand, or you have a large lead). You could also use the tile as part of a [[mentsu|tile group]], or [[betaori|fold]] by never dealing said tiles. | |||
Usually, when sakigiri is mentioned, it comes at the cost of hand speed. This isn't always the case, though. If a dangerous tile would do nothing in your hand, and can't be used to improve your hand waits, discard that tile early. | |||
==The ways of defense and offense== | ==The ways of defense and offense== | ||