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Tibet rules: Difference between revisions
riichi section formatting, added scoring and common rule variations
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* For the time being, having all four of the same tile in hand does not hold any special significance. Quads or ''kan'' will be introduced much later, after the end of the standard Tibet rules path. | * For the time being, having all four of the same tile in hand does not hold any special significance. Quads or ''kan'' will be introduced much later, after the end of the standard Tibet rules path. | ||
* Only the most recent discard can be used to call on a win. You can't go back to a discard from previous turns to win! | * Only the most recent discard can be used to call on a win. You can't go back to a discard from previous turns to win! | ||
* Each player should organize their discards in front of themselves in a row, making sure that the order of their discards is maintained. (Later, when there are more tiles, each row should be six tiles long, starting a new one below the previous one with the | * Each player should organize their discards in front of themselves in a row, making sure that the order of their discards is maintained. (Later, when there are more tiles, each row should be six tiles long, starting a new one below the previous one with the seventh or thirteenth discard.) | ||
* If the person with the first turn (the dealer) won the hand, they get to stay as dealer for the next hand. Otherwise, the role of the first player moves counter-clockwise, to the player on the previous dealer's right. | * If the person with the first turn (the dealer) won the hand, they get to stay as dealer for the next hand. Otherwise, (including in a draw, for now,) the role of the first player moves counter-clockwise, to the player on the previous dealer's right. | ||
* For experienced teachers: don't introduce, enforce, or worry about ''[[furiten]]''. Focus on helping players get to any kind of ''tenpai''. At the end of each hand, review everyone's hands. If a player is in ''tenpai'', see if they can name what they're waiting on. If they're not in ''tenpai'', see if they know what tiles would have helped them get there. (There is no way to be even further than ''[[iishanten]]'' with four tiles in a single suit.) If the players are struggling with seeing how to progress their hands, then play with open hands, and only allow self-drawn ''tsumo'' wins. But don't jump in too quickly -- it's important for players to explore the space for themselves and experience the decision-making challenges of mahjong first-hand. | * For experienced teachers: don't introduce, enforce, or worry about ''[[furiten]]''. Focus on helping players get to any kind of ''tenpai''. At the end of each hand, review everyone's hands. If a player is in ''tenpai'', see if they can name what they're waiting on. If they're not in ''tenpai'', see if they know what tiles would have helped them get there. (There is no way to be even further than ''[[iishanten]]'' with four tiles in a single suit.) If the players are struggling with seeing how to progress their hands, then play with open hands, and only allow self-drawn ''tsumo'' wins. But don't jump in too quickly -- it's important for players to explore the space for themselves and experience the decision-making challenges of mahjong first-hand. | ||
* Similarly, do not introduce [[scoring]], [[riichi]], or [[naki|tile calls]] yet. | * Similarly, do not introduce [[scoring]], [[riichi]], or [[naki|tile calls]] yet. | ||
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{{ #mjt:123456789s }} | {{ #mjt:123456789s }} | ||
Pairs, sequences, and triplets cannot be made by "mixing" suits -- each set or pair can only be made from a single suit. However, the hand as a whole can have sets or the pair in multiple suits. In practice, despite there being more possibilities for hands, this will be easier than the single-suited, seven-tile hand game. A second suit means that it's less likely for there to be complex group patterns, and it's easier to figure out which of your tiles will end up in each set or pair of the completed hand. Since there are two sets and only one pair, there's also a clearer distinction between each type of hand element. For these reasons, | Pairs, sequences, and triplets cannot be made by "mixing" suits -- each set or pair can only be made from a single suit. However, the hand as a whole can have sets or the pair in multiple suits. In practice, despite there being more possibilities for hands, this will be easier than the single-suited, seven-tile hand game. A second suit means that it's less likely for there to be complex group patterns, and it's easier to figure out which of your tiles will end up in each set or pair of the completed hand. Since there are two sets and only one pair, there's also a clearer distinction between each type of hand element. '''For these reasons, you may be able to start teaching with two suits and seven-tile hands, instead of starting with the one-suit, four-tile hand introduction.''' | ||
Regardless, once players are comfortable at this level, the next step is to increase the hand size to ten tiles. A completed hand will have eleven tiles, consisting of three sets and one pair. | Regardless, once players are comfortable at this level, the next step is to increase the hand size to ten tiles. A completed hand will have eleven tiles, consisting of three sets and one pair. | ||
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The called set is now locked in; you only need to complete the rest of your hand in order to win. Calling another player's tile also effectively makes it your turn, with the tile | The called set is now locked in; you only need to complete the rest of your hand in order to win. Calling another player's tile also effectively makes it your turn, with the tile you called being the tile you 'drew'; you then need to choose a tile from your hand to discard. Note that this means that a ''pon'' call can skip over other players' turns. If you claim a triplet from the player across from you, the player to your left does not get their originally-scheduled turn, and after your discard, the next turn will be taken by the player on your right. | ||
Note as well that ''pon'' can be called to complete any triplet, not just the dragons. Just be careful not to break apart any elements in your hand such as sequences that end up with you being further away from completing your hand! It's always optional whether or not you decide to make a call. But if you do call, make sure you do it quickly, before the next player draws their next tile. After a player has drawn their tile, it's too late to make a call. | Note as well that ''pon'' can be called to complete any triplet, not just the dragons. Just be careful not to break apart any elements in your hand such as sequences that end up with you being further away from completing your hand! It's always optional whether or not you decide to make a call. But if you do call, make sure you do it quickly, before the next player draws their next tile. After a player has drawn their tile, it's too late to make a call. | ||
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To unpack the table, on a self-drawn ''tsumo'', each player pays the winner; on a ''ron'', only the discarder pays, and they pay for | To unpack the table, on a self-drawn ''tsumo'', each player pays the winner; on a ''ron'', only the discarder pays, and they pay for every non-winner's share. The dealer is individually responsible for twice the amount against each other player, so they ultimately get 1.5x the score of non-dealers on a win. (Note that this isn't exact due to rounding at small ''han'' values.) | ||
The overall value of a hand is determined by its ''han'' tally. Hands earn ''han'' based on the scoring patterns, or ''[[yaku]]'', that they satisfy; scoring patterns reward hands or sets that are consistent or exceptional, and more difficult patterns are worth more ''han''. To score a hand, add up the total ''han'' from all of the patterns satisfied by the hand, then look up its point value from the corresponding column and row. | The overall value of a hand is determined by its ''han'' tally. Hands earn ''han'' based on the scoring patterns, or ''[[yaku]]'', that they satisfy; scoring patterns reward hands or sets that are consistent or exceptional, and more difficult patterns are worth more ''han''. To score a hand, add up the total ''han'' from all of the patterns satisfied by the hand, then look up its point value from the corresponding column and row. | ||
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* '''Dragon Triplet''' (''[[yakuhai]]''): [1 ''han'' each] Hand contains a dragon triplet. Stacks for multiple dragon triplets. | * '''Dragon Triplet''' (''[[yakuhai]]''): [1 ''han'' each] Hand contains a dragon triplet. Stacks for multiple dragon triplets. | ||
* '''All Triplets''' (''[[toitoihou]]''): [2 ''han''] The hand's sets are only triplets (plus the standard pair). | * '''All Triplets''' (''[[toitoihou]]''): [2 ''han''] The hand's sets are only triplets (plus the standard pair). | ||
* '''Full Flush''' (''[[chinitsu]]''): [2 ''han''] The hand's tiles are only from a single suit. | * '''Full Flush''' (''[[chinitsu]]''): [2 ''han''] The hand's tiles are only from a single numeric suit. | ||
After introducing the characters numeric suit and moving up to the full thirteen-tile hand size, we can add one more pattern: | After introducing the characters numeric suit and moving up to the full thirteen-tile hand size, we can add one more pattern: | ||
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* '''[[Japanese mahjong setup|Wall building and breaking]]''': With all three numeric suits and the dragons, there will be 120 tiles on the table. This is enough tiles that drawing tiles from a pool of face-down tiles in the center of the table can feel a bit disorganized. So you can start going through the rituals of wall-building and breaking at this point. Without the wind tiles, each player should gather thirty tiles after shuffling, and build walls of fifteen tiles long, stacked two tiles high. Other than the number of tiles, the wall-breaking and starting hand draw procedure should apply as standard (no dead wall or ''dora'' indicator until those rules are introduced). A key point for new players: while turn order is counter-clockwise, tiles are drawn from the wall in clockwise order. | * '''[[Japanese mahjong setup|Wall building and breaking]]''': With all three numeric suits and the dragons, there will be 120 tiles on the table. This is enough tiles that drawing tiles from a pool of face-down tiles in the center of the table can feel a bit disorganized. So you can start going through the rituals of wall-building and breaking at this point. Without the wind tiles, each player should gather thirty tiles after shuffling, and build walls of fifteen tiles long, stacked two tiles high. Other than the number of tiles, the wall-breaking and starting hand draw procedure should apply as standard (no dead wall or ''dora'' indicator until those rules are introduced). A key point for new players: while turn order is counter-clockwise, tiles are drawn from the wall in clockwise order. | ||
** After introducing the wind tiles below, there will be 136 tiles in play. When building the wall, each player should gather thirty-four tiles to build walls that are seventeen stacks long. | |||
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* '''[[Wanpai|Dead wall]]''': | * '''[[Wanpai|Dead wall]]''': The dead wall is a pseudo-hand of tiles at the end of the wall that players will not pull before a draw is claimed. Now, rather than exhausting the walls entirely before a draw, a draw will end when there are only fourteen tiles left in the wall. | ||
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* '''[[Riichi]]''': [1 ''han''] ''Riichi'' lends its name to Japanese Mahjong, and is the most important ''yaku'' to understand. If your hand is in ''tenpai'' and does not have any open calls (no ''chii'' or ''pon'' calls, and any ''kan'' calls must have been from having all four tiles in hand), then you can declare ''riichi'' when making a discard. The discarded tile is turned sideways to show that you have called ''riichi''. From this point forward, your hand is locked in: tiles you draw that do not let you win must be discarded (exception: a ''kan'' can be declared using a drawn tile, if doing so doesn't change what you could win on). | * '''[[Riichi]]''': [1 ''han''] ''Riichi'' lends its name to Japanese Mahjong, and is the most important ''yaku'' to understand. If your hand is in ''tenpai'' and does not have any open calls (no ''chii'' or ''pon'' calls, and any ''kan'' calls must have been from having all four tiles in hand), then you can declare ''riichi'' when making a discard. The discarded tile is turned sideways to show that you have called ''riichi''. From this point forward, your hand is locked in: tiles you draw that do not let you win must be discarded (exception: a ''kan'' can be declared using a drawn tile, if doing so doesn't change what you could win on). | ||
** Additionally, ''riichi'' should also cost a 10-point ante to declare. (If you're playing with point sticks or chips, place the ante in the center of the table, above your discards.) If you win the hand, then you get to take back your ante. But if someone else wins, they get your points, even if they won via ''tsumo'' or ''ron'' off of another player. (If a player declares ''ron'' off the tile you use to declare ''riichi'', you do not need to pay the 10-point ante.) And if the hand goes to a draw, then your bet is set aside to be claimed by the next winner of a hand, whomever that might be. The fact that ''riichi'' costs points to declare seems like a risk, but it can greatly increase the points you stand to win, with additional bonuses such as... | |||
** '''[[Ippatsu]]''': [1 ''han''] If you are lucky enough to call ''ron'' or ''tsumo'' before or on your first turn following a ''riichi'' declaration, you gain a bonus ''han'' for winning in a 'single shot'. However, a call of ''chii'', ''pon'', or ''kan'' made by any player before your next draw breaks the chance to gain ''ippatsu''. | ** '''[[Ippatsu]]''': [1 ''han''] If you are lucky enough to call ''ron'' or ''tsumo'' before or on your first turn following a ''riichi'' declaration, you gain a bonus ''han'' for winning in a 'single shot'. However, a call of ''chii'', ''pon'', or ''kan'' made by any player before your next draw breaks the chance to gain ''ippatsu''. | ||
** If the tile that you discarded to declare ''riichi'' is called by another player, then just turn the next tile you discard sideways instead, to show other players that you have declared ''riichi'', and when you did so. | ** If the tile that you discarded to declare ''riichi'' is called by another player, then just turn the next tile you discard sideways instead, to show other players that you have declared ''riichi'', and when you did so. | ||
** After introducing Riichi, the Concealed Hand ''yaku'' should no longer be allowed as a scoring pattern. | ** After introducing Riichi, the Concealed Hand ''yaku'' should no longer be allowed as a scoring pattern -- instead, concealed hands only count for 1 ''han'' when self-drawn (Fully Concealed Hand, or ''[[menzen tsumo]]''). Therefore, if your hand is in ''tenpai'', but doesn't have any particular scoring pattern, you should declare ''riichi'' if you want to score more than just the baseline points! This is important once you add in the full game requirement that a hand include at least one ''yaku'' to be valid; ''riichi'' is the most prevalent ''yaku'' when it comes to winning hands. | ||
** Remember: you can't call ''riichi'' if you've made a ''chii'', ''pon'', or open ''kan'' call! Often, there's a tradeoff between whether you should keep your hand concealed to try and earn more points, or if you should make calls to speed it up at the cost of potential value. | ** Remember: you can't call ''riichi'' if you've made a ''chii'', ''pon'', or open ''kan'' call! Often, there's a tradeoff between whether you should keep your hand concealed to try and earn more points, or if you should make calls to speed it up at the cost of potential value. | ||
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* '''Scoring in Riichi Mahjong''' | * '''Scoring in Riichi Mahjong''': In the actual scoring of Japanese Mahjong, points are measured in the hundreds and thousands instead of ones and tens. (So, the 10-point ''riichi'' ante is actually a 1000-point ante in the actual scoring.) | ||
** '''[[Scoring table|fu points and higher scoring limits]]''' | ** '''[[Scoring table|fu points and higher scoring limits]]''': Japanese Mahjong also follows the Classical Chinese system of calculating base points for triplets, ''kan''s, value pair, and final wait, before doubling the value based on the number of ''han'' earned from ''yaku'' and ''dora''. | ||
** '''[[Honba]]''' | ** '''[[Honba]]''': If the dealer manages to repeat their dealership, a ''honba'' marker is tracked. Each ''honba'' adds 1(00) to the payment of each player when a hand is won on ''tsumo'', and 3(00) to the payment of the discarder when a hand is won on ''ron''. ''Honba'' can stack up for multiple wins, and are also accumulated when a hand ends in a draw. If a non-dealer wins a hand, the ''honba'' count resets to zero. | ||
** '''Point exchanges at exhaustive draw''' | ** '''Point exchanges at exhaustive draw''': As incentive for players to keep pushing their hands forward, if a hand goes to a draw, players who have not achieved ''tenpai'' will give points to those players who are in ''tenpai''. 30(00) points are collectively given up by the players who are non-''tenpai'', and evenly split to the players who are ''tenpai''. As an additional bonus, if the dealer ends a drawn round in ''tenpai'', they get to keep their dealership (and a ''honba'' is added to the count). | ||
* '''Common [[rule variations]] in Riichi Mahjong''' | * '''Common [[rule variations]] in Riichi Mahjong''': There are many variations in rules used when playing Mahjong. These are just a couple of common alternative rules, especially when playing online. | ||
** '''Akadora''' | ** '''Akadora''': Often, one 5 in each numeric suit is substituted for one that is colored completely red, instead of their usual colors. When one is present in a winning hand, each one is worth 1 additional ''han'' to the final tally. Like other ''dora'' tiles, their presence does not count as ''yaku'' on their own. | ||
** '''Multiple ron''' | ** '''Multiple ron''': In the simplified scoring section, it was mentioned that if multiple players call ''ron'', only the closest player gets to claim the win. An alternative rule allows for ''all'' players who declare ''ron'' to claim winnings off of the discarder -- and each winner gets their full amount! | ||
== External Links == | == External Links == | ||