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Shanten: Difference between revisions
re-add a strategy section
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'''Example''': 3-shanten | '''Example''': 3-shanten | ||
:{{#mjt:457p111m246s1255z}} Needs: Any {{#mjt:23456789p12345678s125z}} to 2-shanten. | :{{#mjt:457p111m246s1255z}} Needs: Any {{#mjt:23456789p12345678s125z}} to 2-shanten. | ||
==Strategy== | |||
Knowing your hand's shanten can help with strategy, such as deciding whether to [[defense|push or fold]], or whether to [[naki strategy|call or stay closed]]. | |||
Of course, knowing the hand's [[tile acceptance]] is also important. A 1-shanten hand with tile acceptance = 2 is worse than a 2-shanten hand with tile acceptance = 20. | |||
1-shanten is the slowest part of most hands. A hand in [[tenpai]] can call [[ron]]. A hand that is 2-[[shanten]] will have a higher [[tile acceptance]]. Therefore, maximizing acceptance at 1-shanten is ''typically'' best for [[tile efficiency]]. | |||
== Counting shanten == | == Counting shanten == | ||