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Defense: Difference between revisions
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Defense is part of the game's learning curve. Typically, beginners may not be aware of defense, due to a greater focus towards general hand development and memorization of [[yaku]]. In the early stages of learning, a player may prioritize winning, since winning gives points. This is to some extent true, since you'll need to win at least one hand to finish first. However, it it not necessary to win every single hand to win a game. | Defense is part of the game's learning curve. Typically, beginners may not be aware of defense, due to a greater focus towards general hand development and memorization of [[yaku]]. In the early stages of learning, a player may prioritize winning, since winning gives points. This is to some extent true, since you'll need to win at least one hand to finish first. However, it it not necessary to win every single hand to win a game. | ||
Eventually, players learn the importance of minimizing deal-ins. Much less points are | Eventually, players learn the importance of minimizing deal-ins. Much less points are lost via tsumo or tenpai settlements than with deal-ins. In many instances, the points you lose matter more towards placement than the points you've gained. Still, a player has to produce hands, but they should know when to attack and when to defend. | ||
== Safe tiles == | == Safe tiles == | ||
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===Sakigiri=== | ===Sakigiri=== | ||
{{main|Sakigiri}} | {{main|Sakigiri}} | ||
'''Sakigiri''' is the act of discarding tiles before they become dangerous. | '''Sakigiri''' is the act of discarding tiles before they become dangerous, usually at a cost of [[tile efficiency|hand speed]]. | ||
Often, a player will receive at least one tile that another player could win with. Sometimes, you might get said "winning" tiles before an opponent reaches tenpai. So by discarding dangerous tiles before opponents reach tenpai, you don't deal in. You can also use those tiles in your hand, or, when opponents are in tenpai, [[betaori|fold]] by never dealing said tiles. This technique is best done if you don't need to win, e.g. you are far away from others in point standings. | |||
== Techniques to find safe tiles == | == Techniques to find safe tiles == | ||
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*Honor tiles you can see all four copies of are safe against everything except [[kokushi musou]]. If kokushi isn't possible (e.g. all four copies of a ''different'' honor/terminal are also visible), then these honors are 100% safe. | *Honor tiles you can see all four copies of are safe against everything except [[kokushi musou]]. If kokushi isn't possible (e.g. all four copies of a ''different'' honor/terminal are also visible), then these honors are 100% safe. | ||
*Honor tiles you can see three copies of are extremely safe. They can only be won off a [[tanki]] wait or kokushi musou. Even yakuhai are safe. | *Honor tiles you can see three copies of are extremely safe. They can only be won off a [[tanki]] wait or kokushi musou. Even yakuhai are safe. | ||
*Honor tiles you can see one or two of are relatively safe. They | *Honor tiles you can see one or two of are relatively safe. They become safer if at least one copy has been discarded by any player. Guest winds are safer than yakuhai. | ||
"Live" (unplayed) [[yakuhai]] can be dangerous, becoming more dangerous as the game goes on. They are | "Live" (unplayed) [[yakuhai]] can be dangerous, becoming more dangerous as the game goes on. They are particularly dangerous against a suspected [[honitsu]] hand. | ||
===Suji=== | ===Suji=== | ||
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'''Suji''' focuses on taking advantage of the furiten rule, and its application to the "mahjong intervals". Most two-sided or better waits will wait on tiles in the same suji, e.g. a {23} wait wins off either 1 or 4. Therefore, if a player has discarded 4-pin, the 1-pin and 7-pin become safer against that player. Neither is perfectly safe, however. | '''Suji''' focuses on taking advantage of the furiten rule, and its application to the "mahjong intervals". Most two-sided or better waits will wait on tiles in the same suji, e.g. a {23} wait wins off either 1 or 4. Therefore, if a player has discarded 4-pin, the 1-pin and 7-pin become safer against that player. Neither is perfectly safe, however. | ||
Note that 4, 5, and 6 require two tiles to be considered suji. For example, discarding a 1-pin does not make 4-pin much safer, since the hand could contain a 4-7 wait. In order for 4-pin to be "full" suji, both 1-pin and 7-pin must be safe. | |||
Some suji are safer than others: | Some suji are safer than others: | ||
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*Suji 2 and 8, as well as full suji of 4/5/6, are the next safest. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, or [[kanchan]]. | *Suji 2 and 8, as well as full suji of 4/5/6, are the next safest. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, or [[kanchan]]. | ||
*Suji 3 and 7 are the most dangerous, though still reasonably safe. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, kanchan, or [[penchan]]. | *Suji 3 and 7 are the most dangerous, though still reasonably safe. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, kanchan, or [[penchan]]. | ||
Using suji on the riichi declaration tile is more dangerous than normal. This is because of the ryankan shape (e.g. 135, 246, or 357). Ryankans are often kept as they can improve [[tile efficiency]]. But if the hand reaches tenpai with a ryankan intact, then it must discard one of the tiles. In this case, a player can discard the 5 and wait on the suji tile 2. | Using suji on the riichi declaration tile is more dangerous than normal. This is because of the ryankan shape (e.g. 135, 246, or 357). Ryankans are often kept as they can improve [[tile efficiency]]. But if the hand reaches tenpai with a ryankan intact, then it must discard one of the tiles. In this case, a player can discard the 5 and wait on the suji tile 2. | ||