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Defense: Difference between revisions
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===Furiten and genbutsu=== | ===Furiten and genbutsu=== | ||
{{main|Furiten|Genbutsu}} | {{main|Furiten|Genbutsu}} | ||
The most important defense technique. [[Genbutsu]] involves tiles that are 100% safe due to | The most important defense technique. [[Genbutsu]] involves tiles that are 100% safe against a player, due to the [[furiten]] rule: | ||
*Any tile that an opponent discarded is 100% against them. | *Any tile that an opponent discarded is 100% against them. | ||
*After an opponent declares [[riichi]], any tile anyone discards (and not won off of) is 100% safe against that riichi player. | |||
*Any tile that the player to your left has discarded this turn is 100% safe for this turn only. | *Any tile that the player to your left has discarded this turn is 100% safe for this turn only. | ||
===Honors=== | ===Honors=== | ||
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{{main|Suji}} | {{main|Suji}} | ||
'''Suji''' focuses on taking advantage of the furiten rule, and its application to the "mahjong intervals". Most two-sided or better waits will wait on tiles | '''Suji''' focuses on taking advantage of the furiten rule, and its application to the "mahjong intervals". Most two-sided or better waits will wait on tiles that are 3 numbers apart. E.g. a {23} wait wins off either a 1 or 4 (4-3=1). Therefore, if a tile is safe, the tiles that are 3 apart from that tile are safer - the intervals of 3 are called "suji intervals". For instance, if a player has discarded 4-pin, the 1-pin and 7-pin become safer against that player. Neither 1 or 7 is perfectly safe, however. | ||
It is ''very'' important to note that the middle tiles (4, 5, 6) require two tiles to be considered true suji. A discarded 1-pin by itself does not make 4-pin much safer, since the hand could contain a 4-7 wait. In order for 4-pin to be "full" suji, both 1-pin and 7-pin must be safe. | |||
Some suji are safer than others: | Some suji are safer than others: | ||
*Suji terminals (1 and 9) are the safest, as they can only be targeted by a [[tanki]] or [[shanpon]]. | *Suji terminals (1 and 9) are the safest, as they can only be targeted by a [[tanki]] or [[shanpon]]. | ||
*Suji 2 and 8 | *Suji 2 and 8 are the next safest. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, or [[kanchan]]. | ||
*Suji 3 and 7 are the most dangerous, though still reasonably safe. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, kanchan, or [[penchan]]. | *Suji 3 and 7 are the most dangerous, though still reasonably safe. They can be targeted by a tanki, shanpon, kanchan, or [[penchan]]. | ||
*"Full" suji 4, 5, and 6 are about as safe as suji 2 and 8. "Half" suji 4, 5, and 6 are not safe. | |||
**Note: Full suji is when both suji interval tiles are safe. Half suji is when only one suji interval tile is safe. So a 1 being safe makes 4 half suji; both 1 and 7 being safe makes 4 full suji. | |||
Using suji on the riichi declaration tile is more dangerous than normal. This is because of the ryankan shape (e.g. 135, 246, or 357). Ryankans are often kept as they can improve [[tile efficiency]]. But if the hand reaches tenpai with a ryankan intact, then it must discard one of the tiles. In this case, a player can discard the 5 and wait on the suji tile 2. | Using suji on the riichi declaration tile is more dangerous than normal. This is because of the ryankan shape (e.g. 135, 246, or 357). Ryankans are often kept as they can improve [[tile efficiency]]. But if the hand reaches tenpai with a ryankan intact, then it must discard one of the tiles. In this case, a player can discard the 5 and wait on the suji tile 2. | ||