Tibet rules: Difference between revisions

full hand, characters, dragons, and pon
(full hand, characters, dragons, and pon)
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Pairs, sequences, and triplets cannot be made by "mixing" suits -- each set or pair can only be made from a single suit. However, the hand as a whole can have sets or the pair in multiple suits. In practice, despite there being more possibilities for hands, this will be easier than the single-suited, seven-tile hand game. A second suit means that it's less likely for complex group patterns, which makes it easier to figure out which of your tiles will end up in each set or pair of the completed hand. There's an argument that can be made as well that you can also start here, at the two-suit, seven-tile game, as it also provides a clearer distinction between a set and the pair, since the final hand will have a different number of each type of hand element.
Pairs, sequences, and triplets cannot be made by "mixing" suits -- each set or pair can only be made from a single suit. However, the hand as a whole can have sets or the pair in multiple suits. In practice, despite there being more possibilities for hands, this will be easier than the single-suited, seven-tile hand game. A second suit means that it's less likely for complex group patterns, which makes it easier to figure out which of your tiles will end up in each set or pair of the completed hand. There's an argument that can be made as well that you can also start here, at the two-suit, seven-tile game, as it also provides a clearer distinction between a set and the pair, since the final hand will have a different number of each type of hand element.


===10+ tile hands===
Regardless, once players are comfortable at this level, the next step is to increase the hand size to ten tiles. A completed hand will have eleven tiles, consisting of three sets of three tiles (each a sequence or triplet), and one pair.  
Regardless, once players are comfortable at this level, the next step is to increase the hand size to ten tiles. A completed hand will have eleven tiles, consisting of three sets of three tiles (each a sequence or triplet), and one pair.


With 10 tile hands, it's technically possible to have an even more complicated wait. However, such waits are too rare to be worth thinking about. First off, all 10 tiles need to be of the same suit, and then they have to align perfectly to get a giant wait.
== Approaching the complete game ==


Naturally, after 10 tiles, it is time to upgrade to 13 tiles - the hand size used in regular riichi mahjong. Additionally, you'll soon want to add the third suit: the character tiles. The character tiles are numbered with Chinese/Japanese kanji from 1-9. If learners are unfamiliar with the numbering, try to use a mahjong set with tile indexes (e.g. a small 1 in the 1-man tile).  
There are multiple possible paths here for what to add in order to bring players up to full-sized mahjong. From this point onwards, the rules start to deviate from "Tibet Rules" and starts going into actual "Riichi Mahjong".
 
=== Thirteen-tile hands and the characters suit ===
 
A full hand in Riichi mahjong consists of thirteen tiles; a complete hand has fourteen tiles, consisting of four sets and one pair. While it is technically possible to play with full-sized hands with only two numeric suits, at a table of four players, this leaves only twenty tiles to be drawn after each player has their initial hands (72 - 4 * 13 = 20).
 
So it is natural to introduce the characters numeric suit at the same time as the full hand size, or while players are still working on ten-tile hands.


   {{ #mjt:123456789m }}  
   {{ #mjt:123456789m }}  
One major hurdle with the characters suit is that it requires players to understand how to read Chinese characters. If your tile set does not have numeric indices on the tiles as a guide, it's a good idea to have some references available for players to look over to help them learn the tiles.
=== Dragon tiles and calling for triplets (pon) ===
As an alternative to introducing the characters suit to players, you can instead introduce them to the dragons first:
  {{ #mjt:567z }}
Since understanding the meaning of these tiles is not necessary, this can push back the need for outside reference cards which might take away from the flow of learning. The main thing to note for these tiles is that they can only form triplets and pairs. You can't take one tile of each type and make a set; it's as invalid as trying to make a sequency by mixing up tiles of different numeric suits.
It'll be quite evident that it's quite difficult to make use of these tiles just by drawing tiles on your own. It'd be nice to be able to use other peoples' discards to advance your own hand, right? This makes for a great opportunity to teach players a new type of call: ''pon''. After another player discards a tile that would complete a triplet, you may call ''pon''. Reveal the pair matching the discard from your hand, and set them to the side. The tile you claimed should be placed with those two tiles, rotated depending on which player you called it from. (The reasons why we do this will become important in the full Riichi rules.)
{| class="wikitable" width=480px
|-
| align=center| Left || align=center| Across || align=center| Right
|-
| align=center| {{#mjt:1'11p}} || align=center| {{#mjt:11'1p}} || align=center| {{#mjt:111'p}}
|}
The called set is now locked in; you only need to complete the rest of your hand in order to win. Calling another player's tile also effectively makes it your turn; you then need to choose a tile from your hand to discard. Note that this means that a ''pon'' call can skip over other players' turns. If you claim a triplet from the player across from you, the player to your left does not get their originally-scheduled turn, and after your discard, the next turn will be taken by the player on your right.
Note as well that ''pon'' can be called to complete any triplet, not just the dragons. Just be careful not to end up breaking apart any elements in your hand like sequences that end up with you being further away from completing your hand! It's always optional whether or not you decide to make a call. But if you do call, make sure you do it quickly, before the next player draws their next tile. After a player has drawn their tile, it's too late to make a call.


==Introducing Riichi + Calls==
==Introducing Riichi + Calls==
After playing with 13-tile hands with 3 suits, it also makes sense to introduce the more complex game mechanics. From this point onwards, the rules start to deviate from "Tibet Rules" and start going into actual "Riichi Mahjong".
A suggested simplified ruleset, which introduces [[riichi]], [[furiten]], and [[tile calls]], is as follows. This specific ruleset should be adjusted depending on the player group.
A suggested simplified ruleset, which introduces [[riichi]], [[furiten]], and [[tile calls]], is as follows. This specific ruleset should be adjusted depending on the player group.


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*Furiten: If a player had discarded a tile that their current hand could've won with, they are in ''furiten''. A hand in ''furiten'' may not call ''ron'' by any means. Even if the player's discarded tile and the opponent's tile are different, you may not call ron. A hand in fuirten may win from ''tsumo'' (self-draw) as normal, or change its wait so that it is no longer in furiten.
*Furiten: If a player had discarded a tile that their current hand could've won with, they are in ''furiten''. A hand in ''furiten'' may not call ''ron'' by any means. Even if the player's discarded tile and the opponent's tile are different, you may not call ron. A hand in fuirten may win from ''tsumo'' (self-draw) as normal, or change its wait so that it is no longer in furiten.


== External Links ==
== External Links ==
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