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Tile efficiency: Difference between revisions
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All else equal, a ryanmen is twice as good as the other joints, because they accept twice as many tiles. Kanchans can be upgraded to ryanmens (e.g. 24-pin, after drawing 5, turns into 45-pin). | All else equal, a ryanmen is twice as good as the other joints, because they accept twice as many tiles. Kanchans can be upgraded to ryanmens (e.g. 24-pin, after drawing 5, turns into 45-pin), so they are better than penchan. | ||
===Toitsu=== | ===Toitsu=== | ||
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==Important concepts== | ==Important concepts== | ||
The general ideas of tile efficiency are: | |||
*Discard the tiles that have the fewest amount of upgrades. | |||
*Prefer increasing tile acceptance at 1-shanten than before 1-shanten | |||
*Try to get a good wait at [[tenpai]] | |||
*Prefer ryanmen > other joints > isolated tiles | |||
===Isolated tile utility=== | ===Isolated tile utility=== | ||
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Also, when you have an open hand, keeping pairs is relatively stronger than normal. This is because you can pon with any player's discard, but [[chii]] can only be done to the player to the left. Pairs of tiles likely to be discarded, like guest winds or 1s/9s, are better. | Also, when you have an open hand, keeping pairs is relatively stronger than normal. This is because you can pon with any player's discard, but [[chii]] can only be done to the player to the left. Pairs of tiles likely to be discarded, like guest winds or 1s/9s, are better. | ||
When you have too many pairs, it's often best to turn a 'ryanmen + pair' into a normal ryanmen (e.g. from 778, discard a 7 to get 78). Ryanmen are already good to wait on, so they do not need the "improvement" as much. Then, discard pairs | |||
If you have 4 pairs you might want to consider [[chiitoitsu]], but if a sequence or triplet forms, you should probably discard a pair and go for a normal hand. At 5 pairs, you're at 1-shanten for chiitoitsu, so you should likely go for that. | If you have 4 pairs you might want to consider [[chiitoitsu]], but if a sequence or triplet forms, you should probably discard a pair and go for a normal hand. At 5 pairs, you're at 1-shanten for chiitoitsu, so you should likely go for that. | ||
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In other cases, players may end up simply having tenpai in mind, especially as the hand nears the later discards. This is of particular concern for the current [[dealer]], who may have an interest in retaining the position and [[Renchan|repeat the hand]]. | In other cases, players may end up simply having tenpai in mind, especially as the hand nears the later discards. This is of particular concern for the current [[dealer]], who may have an interest in retaining the position and [[Renchan|repeat the hand]]. | ||
==Sakigiri== | |||
{{main|Sakigiri}} | |||
[[Sakigiri]] is the practice of discarding "dangerous" tiles before opponents reach tenpai. Often, the term "sakigiri" means sacrificing tile efficiency for the sake of better defense. | |||
Even when going for maximum efficiency, it's good to know the ideas behind sakagiri. Specifically, when two tiles are equally useless, you should discard the tile that is more dangerous first. | |||
* {{#mjt:24m12345p5789s22z}} Draw: {{#mjt:4s}} | |||
In this case, the 24-man [[kanchan]] is no longer useful to the hand. The hand will discard both 2-man and 4-man once it reaches tenpai. As the 4-man is a middle tile, it is more dangerous, so it should be discarded first. | |||
* {{#mjt:24m12368p5789s22z}} Draw: {{#mjt:4s}} | |||
Here, the 4-man ''is'' useful. The hand has a non-ryanmen joint, so you want to keep the 4-man because it could be used to upgrade the hand (if you draw 5-man, you get a 45-man ryanmen, allowing you to get rid of the 68-pin kanchan). Here, the better move is to discard 2-man (or 8-pin). | |||
== External links == | == External links == | ||