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Defense in [[Japanese mahjong]] means to ''' | Defense in [[Japanese mahjong]] means to '''avoid dealing into other players' hands by not discarding winning tiles'''. Defense is an important skill, especially when other players call [[riichi]] and/or have a high scoring hand. All else equal, a player with a lower "[[ron|deal in rate]]" will have a higher chance of winning the game. | ||
== General overview == | == General overview == | ||
Defense is part of the game's learning curve. Typically, beginners may not be aware of defense, | Defense is part of the game's learning curve. Typically, beginners may not be aware of defense, as guides often focus on general [[tile efficiency|hand development]] and memorization of [[yaku]]. In the early stages of learning, a player may prioritize winning, since winning gives points. This is to some extent true, since you'll need to win at least one hand to finish first. However, it it not necessary to win every single hand to win a game. | ||
Eventually, players learn the importance of minimizing deal-ins. Much less points are lost via tsumo or tenpai settlements than with deal-ins. In many instances, the points you lose matter more towards placement than the points you've gained. Still, a player has to produce hands, but they should know when to attack and when to defend. | Eventually, players learn the importance of minimizing deal-ins. Much less points are lost via tsumo or tenpai settlements than with deal-ins. In many instances, the points you lose matter more towards placement than the points you've gained. Still, a player has to produce hands, but they should know when to attack and when to defend. | ||
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===Sakigiri=== | ===Sakigiri=== | ||
{{main|Sakigiri}} | {{main|Sakigiri}} | ||
'''Sakigiri''' is the act of discarding tiles before they become dangerous, usually at | '''Sakigiri''' is the act of discarding tiles before they become dangerous. When sakigiri is mentioned, it usually comes at the cost of [[tile efficiency]] (hand speed). | ||
Players will often receive at least one tile that another player could've won with. Sometimes, you can get those "winning" tiles before an opponent reaches tenpai. By discarding those tiles before opponent tenpai, it won't be dangerous. This technique is best done when you don't care about winning (e.g. you have a cheap hand). You could also use the tile in your hand, or [[betaori|fold]] by never dealing said tiles. | Players will often receive at least one tile that another player could've won with. Sometimes, you can get those "winning" tiles before an opponent reaches tenpai. By discarding those tiles before opponent tenpai, it won't be dangerous. This technique is best done when you don't care about winning (e.g. you have a cheap hand). You could also use the tile in your hand, or [[betaori|fold]] by never dealing said tiles. | ||
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===Honors=== | ===Honors=== | ||
[[Honor]] tiles | [[Honor]] tiles with multiple copies visible are generally safer. This is because the honor tiles cannot form [[shuntsu|sequences]], meaning they are harder to wait off of. | ||
*Honor tiles you can see all four copies of are safe against everything except [[kokushi musou]]. If kokushi isn't possible (e.g. all four copies of a ''different'' honor/terminal are also visible), then these honors are 100% safe. | *Honor tiles you can see all four copies of are safe against everything except [[kokushi musou]]. If kokushi isn't possible (e.g. all four copies of a ''different'' honor/terminal are also visible), then these honors are 100% safe. | ||
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{{main|Suji}} | {{main|Suji}} | ||
'''Suji''' focuses on taking advantage of the furiten rule | '''Suji''' focuses on taking advantage of the furiten rule and the most common type of wait. | ||
It is | A [[ryanmen]] wait, a two-sided wait to complete a sequence (e.g. {23} waiting for 1 or 4), is the most common wait in the game, appearing in ~50% of all hands. A ryanmen always waits on tiles that are 3 numbers apart, such as 1-4 or 4-7. | ||
Therefore, when a tile is safe, the other tiles that are 3 apart become safer. For instance, if a player has discarded 4-pin, the 1-pin and 7-pin become safer against that player. Neither 1 or 7 is perfectly safe, however. These intervals of 3 are called "suji intervals". | |||
It is important to note that the middle tiles (4, 5, 6) require two tiles to be considered true suji. The 4 is part of two suji intervals: 1-4 and 4-7. If a 1 is discarded, a player could still have a 4-7 open wait. The 4 is only full suji if ''both'' 1 and 7 are safe. | |||
Some suji are safer than others: | Some suji are safer than others: | ||
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Like suji, other waits - specifically, waits that are not sequences - are still possible. It is also possible to target 3 or 7 with a [[penchan]]. Overall, kabe is comparable to suji (though kabe is safer), and should be used in a similar fashion. | Like suji, other waits - specifically, waits that are not sequences - are still possible. It is also possible to target 3 or 7 with a [[penchan]]. Overall, kabe is comparable to suji (though kabe is safer), and should be used in a similar fashion. | ||
==When to defend== | |||
The "push/fold" decision - i.e. when to go for a win vs when to defend - is one of the many critical decisions a player can make. A concrete answer is difficult, so here are factors to consider: | |||
* Hand progress: At 2-[[shanten]] or higher, it is ''usually'' worth folding if able - tenpai is too far away. 1-shanten with poor acceptance is a similar story. | |||
** [[Ukeire|Tile acceptance]] / [[wait]]s at tenpai: It's much better to attack if you have good waits (wait with >= 6 tiles remaining). Similarly, at 1-shanten, it's best to have strong tile acceptance. | |||
* Hand value: Cheaper hands are not worth pushing as much. | |||
* [[Situational analysis]]: Especially when close to [[oorasu|all last]], consider what happens if you win, if you deal in, and if an opponent tsumos. For example: if it's all last, 4th place declares [[riichi]], and you are 3rd with only a 1000 point lead, you dealing in and having opponent tsumo would both result in you ending in 4th. Therefore, you would be forced to attack. | |||
* Number of safe tiles in hand: If you have no reasonably safe tiles to discard, you may have no option but to attack. You can fold later if safe tiles are revealed. | |||
* Turn count (Number of safe tile types available): As more tile types become safe, the more dangerous the other tiles become (see [[Suji#Suji counting|Suji counting]] for more detials). Therefore, as the game progresses, you should be more willing to fold. The longer the game goes on, the more safe tiles are revealed, and thus the more dangerous it is to push. | |||
==The ways of defense and offense== | ==The ways of defense and offense== | ||
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{{main|Betaori}} | {{main|Betaori}} | ||
'''Betaori''' is pure defense - it focuses on discarding nothing but safe tiles. In this state, a player has completely abandoned all hope of developing a winning hand, only trying to minimize the chance of dealing in. | '''Betaori''' ("folding") is pure defense - it focuses on discarding nothing but safe tiles. In this state, a player has completely abandoned all hope of developing a winning hand, only trying to minimize the chance of dealing in. At times, it may be needed to break [[tenpai]] for defense. The essence of betaori is to always discard the safest tile first. Even suji and hell-wait honor tiles should not be discarded before genbutsu. | ||
===Kanzen shinko=== | ===Kanzen shinko=== | ||
'''Kanzen shinko''' is the way of complete offense. A player basically ignores the opposing tenpai and proceeds to attack normally. It can be used with a very strong hand, a situation where a win is required, or in any case where the hand contains very few safe tiles. In the last case, one can switch to betaori if tiles in the hand become safe. | '''Kanzen shinko''' ("pushing") is the way of complete offense. A player basically ignores the opposing tenpai and proceeds to attack normally. It can be used with a very strong hand, a situation where a win is required, or in any case where the hand contains very few safe tiles. In the last case, one can switch to betaori if tiles in the hand become safe. | ||
===Mawashi uchi=== | ===Mawashi uchi=== | ||
'''Mawashi uchi''' is a half-way style. A player will aim to discard relatively safe tiles while still aiming for tenpai. Discardable tiles include honors, suji tiles and no-chance kabe tiles. From this state a player may fall back to betaori upon drawing dangerous tiles, or attack when reaching tenpai. This style is not recommended for beginners, | '''Mawashi uchi''' is a half-way style. A player will aim to discard relatively safe tiles while still aiming for tenpai. Discardable tiles include honors, suji tiles and no-chance kabe tiles. From this state a player may fall back to betaori upon drawing dangerous tiles, or attack when reaching tenpai. This style is not recommended for beginners due to requiring strong push/fold judgement (it is easy to discard recklessly, claiming it's "mawashi"). It is most appropriate to use when in a good shape iishanten for a strong hand. | ||
==External links== | ==External links== | ||