Tile efficiency: Difference between revisions

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Isolated tiles, also known as "lone" or "floating" tiles, are those with no neighbors. A tile is isolated when there is no tiles numerically or categorically adjacent. Therefore, they may not be used for [[naki|tile calls]].  
Isolated tiles, also known as "lone" or "floating" tiles, are those with no neighbors. A tile is isolated when there is no tiles numerically or categorically adjacent. Therefore, they may not be used for [[naki|tile calls]].  


These tiles are not very useful, so they are often discarded first. However, an isolated tile may be used to "upgrade" the hand. An isolated 5 can be kept to try and improve the hand's shape. An isolated [[dora]] can be kept to increase the value of the hand. An isolated [[yakuhai]] can be paired and then [[pon]]'d.
These tiles are not very useful, so they are often discarded first. However, an isolated tile may be used to "upgrade" the hand. An isolated 5 can be kept to try and improve the hand's shape. An isolated [[dora]] can be kept to increase the value of the hand. An isolated [[yakuhai]] can be paired and then [[pon]]ned.


===Taatsu===
===Taatsu===
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==Important concepts==
==Important concepts==
The general ideas of tile efficiency are:
The general ideas of tile efficiency are:
*Discard the tiles that contribute the least to tile acceptance / have the fewest amount of upgrades
*Discard the tiles that contribute the least to tile acceptance / have the fewest amount of upgrades.
*All else equal, prefer having better acceptance at 1-[[shanten]] over any other time
*All else equal, prefer having better acceptance at 1-[[shanten]] over any other time.
*Try to get a good wait at [[tenpai]]
*Try to get a good wait at [[tenpai]].
*Prefer ryanmen over other types of joints
*Prefer ryanmen over other types of joints.


===Isolated tile utility===
===Isolated tile utility===
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Therefore, for pure tile acceptance, a lone 3/4/5/6/7 > lone 2/8 > lone 1/9 > lone guest winds. Therefore, when discarding tiles that are unrelated to your hand, you should normally discard guest winds, then 1s/9s, then 2s/8s. When discarding tiles, you should also keep in mind mechanics like [[furiten]] and [[dora]]. With [[red fives]] in play, 4/6 become stronger than 3/7 due to being able to create ryanmen with a red five.
Therefore, for pure tile acceptance, a lone 3/4/5/6/7 > lone 2/8 > lone 1/9 > lone guest winds. When discarding tiles that are unrelated to your hand, you should normally discard guest winds, then 1s/9s, then 2s/8s. When discarding tiles, you should also keep in mind mechanics like [[furiten]] and [[dora]]. With [[red fives]] in play, 4/6 become stronger than 3/7 due to being able to create ryanmen with a red five.


[[Yakuhai]] are a special case. Because they can be [[pon]]'d to instantly gain a yaku and a group, they are more valuable when these conditions are met: 1. the hand would not have any yaku if opened, 2. the hand does not have an obvious "4 groups + 1 pair" yet, and 3. creating a triplet is possible (less than 2 copies are visible). In an average starting hand, they are more valuable than 1/9 but less important than 2/8. Yakuhai are a bit stronger in [[tonpuusen]] due to its faster paced nature.
[[Yakuhai]] are a special case. Because they can be [[pon]]ned to instantly gain a yaku and a group, they are more valuable when: 1. the hand would not have any yaku if opened, 2. the hand does not have an obvious "4 groups + 1 pair" yet, and 3. creating a triplet is possible (less than 2 copies are visible). In an average starting hand, they are more valuable than 1/9 but less important than 2/8. Yakuhai are a bit stronger in [[tonpuusen]] due to its faster paced nature.


[[Dora]] can greatly boost the value of the hand - a dora pair turns a 2000 point hand into a 7700 point one. Keeping the dora might not be the best when going for ''pure'' tile efficiency, but they can be good to keep if you need the value.
[[Dora]] can greatly boost the value of the hand - a dora pair turns a 2000 point hand into a 7700 point one. Keeping the dora might not be the best when going for ''pure'' tile efficiency, but they can be good to keep if you need the value.
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As the hand reduces in shanten, its tile acceptance is also reduced. So going from 1-shanten to tenpai is the slowest part of hand development. Therefore, it's better to improve tile efficiency at 1-shanten than 2-shanten - the returns are bigger. In this example, the 5-block hand is 15% worse (24/28 tiles) at 2-shanten, but 25% better (20/16 tiles) at 1-shanten.
As the hand reduces in shanten, its tile acceptance is also reduced. This means that going from 1-shanten to tenpai is the slowest part of hand development. Therefore, it's better to improve tile efficiency at 1-shanten than 2-shanten - the returns are bigger. In this example, the 5-block hand is 15% worse (24/28 tiles) at 2-shanten, but 25% better (20/16 tiles) at 1-shanten.


For this reason, aiming for 5 blocks is generally better for tile efficiency.  
For this reason, aiming for 5 blocks is generally better for tile efficiency.  
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*Sometimes, there may be multiple different ways to interpret a hand's blocks (e.g. 5568 can be seen as 556 + isolated 8, or 55 + 68).
*Sometimes, there may be multiple different ways to interpret a hand's blocks (e.g. 5568 can be seen as 556 + isolated 8, or 55 + 68).


In isolation, 5 block theory is ''always'' best. But, when considering opponents' actions, keeping 6 blocks can be more flexible. If somebody calls a [[kan]] on 4-pin while you have 23-pin, the 23-pin becomes much weaker, so you can discard it and be better off than if you just had 5 blocks.
In isolation, 5 block theory is the best. But, when considering opponents' actions, keeping 6 blocks can be more flexible. If somebody calls a [[kan]] on 4-pin while you have 23-pin, the 23-pin becomes much weaker, so you can discard it and be better off than if you just had 5 blocks.


When discarding the 6th block, discard the weakest block you have (the one that improves tile acceptance the least). For example, if deciding between a penchan and ryanmen, discard the penchan. If you have two blocks of 23-man + 56-man, they have "duplicate acceptance" on the 4-man, so discarding one of those only leads to a loss of 4 tiles of acceptance.
When discarding the 6th block, discard the weakest block you have (the one that improves tile acceptance the least). For example, if deciding between a penchan and ryanmen, discard the penchan. If you have two blocks of 23-man + 56-man, they have "duplicate acceptance" on the 4-man, so discarding one of those only leads to a loss of 4 tiles of acceptance.
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When two joints and/or isolated tiles accept the same type of tile, they become worse for tile efficiency.
When two joints and/or isolated tiles accept the same type of tile, they become worse for tile efficiency.


*A {{#mjt:45s}} ryanmen accepts ({{#mjt:36s}}). A {{#mjt:78s}} ryanmen accepts ({{#mjt:69s}}). Combined, they accept {{#mjt:369s}}, which is 4 tiles worse than having 2 separate ryanmen joints. If you happen to draw a 6, you do you get the 3-sided 45678 [[sanmenchan]], but these 2 ryanmen are overall weaker than 2 unrelated ryanmen.
*A {{#mjt:45s}} ryanmen accepts ({{#mjt:36s}}). A {{#mjt:78s}} ryanmen accepts ({{#mjt:69s}}). Combined, as {{#mjt:4578s}}, they accept {{#mjt:369s}}. This is 4 tiles worse than having 2 separate ryanmen joints. If you happen to draw a 6, you do you get the 3-sided 45678 [[sanmenchan]], but these 2 ryanmen are overall weaker than 2 unrelated ryanmen.




*A {{#mjt:56p}} ryanmen accepts {{#mjt:47p}}. A {{#mjt:568p}} shape also accepts {{#mjt:47p}} (and {{#mjt:58p}} if you need a pair). Therefore, the {{#mjt:8p}} isn't doing much when you have already have {{#mjt:56p}} and a stable pair elsewhere. If you don't have a pair, the 568 is decent to keep.  
*A {{#mjt:56p}} ryanmen accepts {{#mjt:47p}}. A {{#mjt:568p}} shape only accepts {{#mjt:47p}} to complete  sequence (and {{#mjt:58p}} if you need a pair). Therefore, the {{#mjt:8p}} isn't doing much when you have already have {{#mjt:56p}} and a stable pair elsewhere. If you don't have a pair, the 568 is decent to keep.  




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*A {{#mjt:2233m}} shape can be treated as two separate {{#mjt:23m}} ryanmen. However, they both accept the same tiles ({{#mjt:14m}}), so doing this isn't as efficient. The shape can be decent, since it has a ryanmen wait once you reach [[tenpai]], but fishing for the [[iipeikou]] will slow down the hand. This shape can also be considered as 2 pairs.
*A {{#mjt:2233m}} shape can be treated as two separate {{#mjt:23m}} ryanmen. However, they both accept the same tiles ({{#mjt:14m}}), so doing this isn't as efficient. The shape can still be decent, since it ends on a ryanmen wait once you reach [[tenpai]], but fishing for the [[iipeikou]] will slow down the hand. This shape can also be considered as 2 pairs.


===Two pairs===
===Two pairs===
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When you have too many pairs, it's often best to turn a 'ryanmen + pair' into a normal ryanmen (e.g. from 778, discard a 7 to get 78). Ryanmen are already good to wait on, so they do not need the "improvement" as much. Then, discard pairs that are harder to form triplets/joints. With 6 blocks, discarding a pair outright is good.
When you have too many pairs, it's often best to turn a 'ryanmen + pair' into a normal ryanmen (e.g. from 778, discard a 7 to get 78). Ryanmen are already good to wait on, so they do not need the "improvement" as much. Then, discard pairs that are harder to form triplets/joints. With 6 blocks, discarding a pair outright is good.


If you have 4 pairs you might want to consider [[chiitoitsu]], but if a sequence or triplet forms, you should probably discard a pair and go for a normal hand. At 5 pairs, you're at 1-shanten for chiitoitsu, so you should likely go for that.
If you have 4 pairs you might want to consider [[chiitoitsu]], but if a sequence or triplet forms, you should consider discarding a pair and go for a normal hand (this depends on the rest of the hand). At 5 pairs, you're at 1-shanten for chiitoitsu, so you should likely go for that.


==4+ tile complex shapes==
==4+ tile complex shapes==
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