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If two tiles are still equally safe, it is best to discard a tile that does not reduce hand progress. After all, you can prevent opponents from winning by winning yourself. | If two tiles are still equally safe, it is best to discard a tile that does not reduce hand progress. After all, you can prevent opponents from winning by winning yourself. | ||
== | ==Mawashi uchi== | ||
'''Mawashi uchi''' {{kana|回し打ち}} is a strategy distinct to betaori. A "halfway" style, it aims to retain 1-shanten while discarding relatively safe tiles (e.g. [[suji]], [[sotogawa]] tiles). A player undergoing mawashi will discard relatively safe tiles, even at the cost of tile acceptance. | '''Mawashi uchi''' {{kana|回し打ち}} is a strategy distinct to betaori. A "halfway" style, it aims to retain 1-shanten while discarding relatively safe tiles (e.g., [[suji]], [[sotogawa]] tiles). A player undergoing mawashi will discard relatively safe tiles, even at the cost of tile acceptance. | ||
When undergoing mawashi, you should constantly evaluate if you should be folding. If a dangerous tile is drawn and can't be used in the hand, mawashi | When undergoing mawashi, you should constantly evaluate if you should be folding. If a dangerous tile is drawn and can't be used in the hand, mawashi will often convert to betaori (or sometimes convert to full pushing). If it gets too late in the round, it may also be good to fold, as it is easier to deal in when late in the round. Conversely, if you hit tenpai in a reasonable timeframe, pushing is generally good. | ||
Because mawashi requires good push/fold judgement, it is recommended to learn how to betaori properly before mawashi (new players may discard recklessly, claiming it is "mawashi"). | |||
==External links== | ==External links== |
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