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While newer players may not be aware of defense, it is fundamentally important to Japanese mahjong, due to its expected value: | While newer players may not be aware of defense, it is fundamentally important to Japanese mahjong, due to its expected value: | ||
* On average, a non-dealer riichi ron is worth around 6000 points (assuming [[red fives]] are in play).<ref>https://osamuko.com/paifu-analysis-is-their-riichi-hand-expensive/</ref> | * On average, a non-dealer riichi ron is worth around 6000 points (assuming [[red fives]] are in play).<ref>https://osamuko.com/paifu-analysis-is-their-riichi-hand-expensive/</ref> | ||
* | * A non-tenpai hand that can't [[naki|be opened]] is ''generally'' more likely to deal in than win when "full" pushing. | ||
** This depends on the exact hand structure. A standard closed 1-[[shanten]] (with 16-20 tile acceptance, before accounting for discards) will be less likely to win than deal in. However, extreme acceptance hands (e.g., [[Iishanten#Kuttsuki|"sticky" 1-shanten]] with 50 tiles acceptance) will have better win rates. | |||
By pushing a regular closed hand below | By pushing a regular closed hand below 6000 points, '''you are more likely to lose points than gain them, and lose more points then you'd gain from winning''', making it a clearly bad idea to push. While defense also loses points (due to opposing [[tsumo]] and [[exhaustive draw|tenpai settlements]]), that point loss is less than trying to push. | ||
An opposing riichi is the most common reason to start defending/folding. In other cases, it isn't clear whether an opponent is tenpai or not, though there are still many situations where defending against a non-riichi opponent is warranted. | An opposing riichi is the most common reason to start defending/folding. In other cases, it isn't clear whether an opponent is tenpai or not, though there are still many situations where defending against a non-riichi opponent is warranted. |
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