User:Hordes
User:Hordes/Riichi Mahjong Primer - Shorter
Danger levels by source:
Path of Houou:
- Genbutsu: 0%
- Honor (4 visible): ~0%
- Honor (3 visible): 0.15%
- Honor (2 visible): 1.5%
- Suji/Kabe:
- Suji 1/9, Kabe 1/9, Kabe 2/8: 1.5%
- Full Suji 4/5/6: 2.2%
- Suji 2/8, Kabe 3/7: 3%
- Suji 3/7: 4.5%
- Non-suji Sotogawa:
- Sotogawa 1/9: 2.5% - 3.4%
- Sotogawa 2/8: 3% - 3.9%
- Sotogawa 3/7: 5%
- Generic (non-suji non-sotogawa):
- 1/9: 8.3%
- 2/8: 10%
- 3/7 11%
- 4/5/6: 14.7%
Statistical Mahjong Strategy (Miinin):
- Genbutsu: 0%
- Honor (4 visible): ~0%
- Honor (3 visible): 0.2%
- Honor (2 visible): 2%
- Suji/Kabe:
- Suji 1/9, Kabe 1/9, Kabe 2/8: 1.9%
- Full Suji 4/5/6: 2.2%
- Suji 2/8, Kabe 3/7: 3.8%
- Suji 3/7: 5.5
- Non-suji Sotogawa:
- Sotogawa 1/9: 3%
- Sotogawa 2/8: 3%
- Sotogawa 3/7: 4%
- Generic (non-suji non-sotogawa):
- 1/9: 7.9%
- 2/8: 9.2%
- 3/7: 10%
- 4/5/6: 14.3%
Riichi Mahjong Primer
This article will attempt to describe how to play riichi mahjong (Japanese Mahjong) online in a clear and concise way. For the sake of brevity, any instructions related to setting up the game are omitted for this guide.
Game Overview
Riichi mahjong is a 4-player tile-based board game with a heavy focus on luck. The goal of the game is to collect the most points.
You gain points by assembling winning hands. Winning hands that meet specific criteria score more points.
Each game is sorted into multiple rounds. For every round, only one player can win. A round ends when a player wins, when the tiles run out, or in certain specific conditions.
The gameplay of riichi mahjong is largely similar to other Asia-originated variants of mahjong. If you know Hong Kong or Singaporean mahjong, for instance, riichi mahjong will not be hard to learn.
- Compared to American Mahjong, "what you do in each turn" is roughly the same, but the types of winning hands are completely different between the two variants.
- Compared to mahjong solitaire ("single player mahjong"; the game where you match tiles with each other), the gameplay as a whole is completely different; only the tiles are the same.
Turns
At the start of each round, each player is dealt 13 tiles. The East player always starts the first turn, followed by South, West, and North (in that order).
During your turn:
- Draw 1 tile.
- If this tile can complete a winning hand, you may declare a win by self-draw ("Tsumo").
- You may declare a quad ("kan") if conditions allow and if you want.
- You may declare "riichi" if conditions allow and if you want.
- Discard 1 tile.
After you discard, your turn is over. Other players may call the discarded tile if they can and want to. If the discarded tile is not called, the next player starts their turn.
After a player wins, the round ends. After 70 draws, the round also ends, even if there is no winner. When the round ends, tiles are reshuffled, and the next round starts.
Tiles
There are 36 types of tiles, and 4 of each type, for a total of 136 tiles. They can be grouped into two major categories:
Number Tiles. Each "suit" of numbered tile has tiles from 1-9. They can be used to form sequences, triplets, and pairs.
- Manzu (Characters) -
- These tiles are labelled in the Chinese characters (equivalent to the Japanese kanji) for 1-9. In online play, you'll often have the option to add 1-9 labels in the corner of the tile.
- Pinzu (Dots, Circles) -
- The number of circles is the number of the tile.
- Souzu (Bamboo, Bams, Sticks) -
- The 1 of this suit is a bird. The other tiles are green lines, the number of lines is the number of the tile.
Honor Tiles. Each honor tiles has a different character on it. They can be used to form triplets and pairs, but not sequences.
- Dragons -
- With dragon tiles, it is not important to know the meaning of the characters are. Thus, they can be referred to as "White", "Green", and "Red" respectively.
- Winds -
- These tiles are labelled in the Chinese characters for the 4 cardinal directions. In order, they are East, South, West, North. Knowing the direction of the wind tiles *is* important. Like the character tiles, the winds can be labelled E S W N in the top right corner if the website allows.
Winning Hands
A winning hand needs to meet two conditions:
- A winning shape. With two exceptions, winning hands are comprised of 4 "sets" + 1 "pair".
- A "yaku". Yaku are conditions or criteria that increase your hand's point value. In essence, a hand cannot win with 0 points, therefore a hand cannot win without any yaku. A yaku may rely on the tiles in the hand, or it may be based on how you win the hand.
- (Note: a hand can also gain value via "dora" tiles, but if the hand has no value other than dora, it cannot win.)
Both these conditions will be described below.
Winning Shape
First, let's explain what "sets" and "pairs" are.
Sets
Sets, also called "melds", "groups", or "mentsu", are groups of 3-4 tiles of a specific type.
1. Sequences - sequences are three number tiles in sequential order, and of the same suit.
| Closed | Open |
|---|---|
   |
  
|
   |
  
|
Sequences may not "wrap around" from 9 to 1, so sequences of 891 or 912 are not allowed. Honor tiles cannot be used in sequences.
2. Triplets - triplets are three copies of the same tile. Any tile can be used in a triplet.
| Closed | Open |
|---|---|
 |
 
|
 |
 
|
Pairs
Pairs are two copies of the same tile, similar to a triplet.
| Pair |
|---|
|
|
|
|
Winning Shape
As mentioned above, with a few exceptions, a winning shape is comprised of 4 sets + 1 pair, for a total of 14 tiles.
Example hand:
4 sets:
- 2 sequences () + )
- 2 triplets () + )
1 pair: ()
However, you can only hold up to 13 tiles at a time. Therefore, you need to get hand that's 1 tile away from winning ("tenpai"), then either win by drawing a needed tile, or claiming it from another player's discard.
Ready Hand (Tenpai)
A ready hand, or a hand in "tenpai", is a hand that is one tile away from winning. Identifying ready hands is important, since a ready hand is required to win.
Ready hand #1 - 3 complete sets + 1 incomplete set + 1 pair:
3 sets:
- 1 sequence ())
- 2 triplets () + )
1 pair: ()
1 incomplete set ()
This hand waits to complete the incomplete set of 56-pin. It may win off of:
- , forming a complete sequence, or
- , forming a complete sequence.
Ready hand #2 - 4 complete sets + 1 tile waiting to be paired:
4 sets:
- 2 sequences () + )
- 2 triplets () + )
1 tile waiting to be paired: ()
It may win off , to complete a pair.
Ready hands may be interpreted in different ways, allowing the hand to win off multiple different types of tiles. For example:
This hand may win off either 
or , to complete a pair.
The section of the hand may be viewed as either ( sequence + tile waiting to be paired) or ( sequence + tile waiting to be paired). Therefore, it can win off either the 4 or the 7.
To Win
If you have a ready hand, and at least one yaku, you are eligible to win. You can win when another player discards a tile that completes the hand, or you draw the tile that completes the hand.
When another player discards a tile you can win with, call "ron". You may not declare ron if you are in furiten (see below for details).
When you draw the tile you can win with, call "tsumo".
Yaku
Yaku are specific criteria that gain you points. For example, All Triplets requires all 4 sets to be triplets. To repeat, a hand cannot win with 0 points, therefore a hand must have at least 1 yaku.
A hand can technically gain points with dora tiles. But if a hand has only dora tiles, and no yaku, it still can't win.
More yaku will be covered later in the guide.
Riichi
The simplest yaku is riichi. So long as you have not called an opponent's discarded tile (you haven't done "chii", "pon", and haven't pressed "kan" when it's not your turn), you may declare riichi when you have a ready hand. Riichi comes with a few stipulations:
- Riichi announces that you have a ready hand to other players.
- Calling riichi costs 1000 points. The first player to win will claim these 1000 points (if you win with your own riichi, you get the 1000 points back).
- Once you declare riichi, you cannot change your hand. You must discard what you draw, unless you draw your winning tile.
Furiten
When you are in furiten, you cannot win off other players' discards. You can still win by self-draw, however.
Discard Furiten
The most common way to enter furiten is when you previously discarded a tile that you can now complete a winning shape with. For example:
Waiting for: 
, , or
Say you discarded the in the past. You cannot win off any tile because you could've won with the discarded 2. If an opponent discards , you cannot win. You did not discard the , but you discarded a tile you could've won with - therefore, you cannot win with any tile discarded by others.
It does not matter if the discarded tile wouldn't give any yaku. If you could've completed a winning shape with the tile, you are in furiten.
While furiten may be an annoying mechanic, it helps players defend against others. Because of the furiten rule, any tile another player discarded is 100% safe against that specific player.
To get yourself out of discard furiten, you may change your hand's shape so that it is no longer able to win with any of your previously discarded tiles.
Players will often get into furiten if they do not have a yaku, or have a yaku that was not guaranteed. Therefore, knowledge of the yaku is important.
Other Furiten
There are two other types of furiten:
- If you decline to take the first possible win after declaring riichi, you enter furiten permanently.
- If you decline to take a win with a non-riichi hand, you enter furiten until your next draw. (This applies even if winning with that tile couldn't give you a yaku.)
This means that, after an opponent declares riichi, any tile anyone discards thereafter is safe against the riichi-declaring player.
Similarly, the tile the player to your left discarded is 100% safe against all 3 players for that turn only.
Tile Calls
Open Calls
Chii and pon are open calls. They let you claim tiles that opponents discard, allowing you to complete the hand faster, but prevent you from gaining certain yaku (most importantly, riichi), and make other yaku cheaper.
Chii - The call to complete a sequence. First, you need 2 tiles that can complete a sequence. Then, the player right before you (the player to your left) must discard a tile that completes the sequence. You may only call chii to the player to your left. This reveals the 2 tiles used for the call, and after revealing, the completed set is placed on the side of the table.
Pon - The call to complete a triplet. You must have 2+ tiles of the same type, then any opponent needs to discard another tile of that type. You may call pon from any player's discard. This reveals the 2 tiles used for the call, and after revealing, the completed set is placed on the side of the table.
After calling chii or pon, you discard a tile immediately, and it becomes the next player's turn. Therefore, when calling pon, you may skip other players' turns.
Calling comes with multiple downsides:
- After calling, you may not adjust the called set afterwards. So if you chii a 123 sequence, you may not change the sequence after drawing a 4.
- Calling reveals the set you completed. Other players may know the type and/or value of the hand once you call.
- Calling cheapens the hand, by preventing certain yaku, and reducing the value of other yaku. Therefore, when calling, you should have at least one yaku planned.
Also, under most rules, you cannot "swap call" - you cannot discard a tile that would complete the set you just called. For example, if you had call 4-sou with a 23-sou semi-sequence, you cannot discard a 1. If you pon a 5-man, you cannot discard another 5-man.
Kan
Kan is the call to complete a quad. It is complicated - new players don't need to worry about it. For the studious, there are three types of kan.
- Open kan - You have 3 tiles of the same type, then any opponent needs to discard another tile of that type. Works like pon does, including the fact that it opens your hand.
- Closed kan - You have 3 tiles of the same type, then draw the 4th one. This call does not open the hand, so you may declare riichi after closed kan.
- Added kan - You previously called pon and draw the 4th tile of the same type.
Despite having 4 tiles, a kan is treated as a single set. Whenever you call kan, you draw a new tile, and your hand size increases by 1. Therefore, after 1 kan call, a ready hand will be 14 tiles, and a winning hand will be 15 tiles.
After calling kan, like chii and pon, you may not change or retrieve the tiles used for the quad after declaring kan.
Calling kan will also reveal a new dora indicator. This may increase the value of anyone's hand, not just your own.
Wind Rotations
At the start of the game, players are assigned East/South/West/North randomly.
When the East player wins, the player's seat winds remain the same for the next round. When nobody wins and the East player has a ready hand, the seats also remains the same.
When a non-East player wins, the winds rotate in reverse player order. The East player becomes North. South becomes East. West becomes South. North becomes West. (The player left of you always remains left of you; the player right of you always remains right of you.)
Game Wind
The game itself has a wind, too. The game starts in the East wind.
After each player has been the East seat once, the game's wind changes. Like player order, the game's wind goes from East -> South -> West -> North.
Because the player seats do not change when the East player wins, whenever the East player does win, the game is extended by one round.
Game rounds are notated by order of winds. The first round is East 1. After the first East player fails to retain their seat, it goes on to East 2, then East 3, and East 4. Then after East 4, South 1 starts, and so on.
Game End
A "hanchan" (half game; South game) is the most common game length in riichi mahjong. In a hanchan the game lasts for 2 winds - East and South. After the South wind ends (South 4; 8 rounds minimum), the game ends.
However:
- If a player falls below 0 points, the game usually ends right then and there.
- If no player has reached the "target score" (usually 30,000 points), then the game continues to the West round. After the West round, the game may end (depending on the website) even if the target score is not met.
Other Game Mechanics
Dealers
The dealer is always the player in the East seat. In online clients, the game is set up automatically, so the dealer does not set up the game. However, being dealer grants various bonuses:
- Dealers gain roughly x1.5 points for every hand they get.
- As mentioned: when a dealer wins, or when the round ends and the dealer has a ready hand, the seat winds do not change. This means that, whenever a dealer wins, the game is extended by 1 round. A dealer can theoretically win forever until a player is bankrupt.
However, when another opponent wins by self-draw ("tsumo"), the dealer pays twice as much as the non-dealers. Dealers do not pay extra when discarding another player's winning tile.
Round End
If no one wins, the round ends once 70 tiles have been drawn and discarded.
When a round ends this way, each player with a ready hand receives points from players without a ready hand.
- 4 players with a ready hand, or 0 players with a ready hand: No payments are made.
- 3 players with a ready hand: The non-ready player pays 1000 points to each player.
- 2 players with a ready hand: The non-ready players pay 1500 points, the ready players receive 1500 points.
- 1 player with a ready hand: The non-ready players each pay 1000 points to the ready player.
The round may also end in an abortive draw - abortive draws happen in rare conditions, so new players don't need to worry about them. If the round ends in an abortive draw, it repeats without changing seats. For more details, see abortive draw.
Honba
Whenever East (the dealer) wins a round, when the game ends in an exhaustive draw, or when the game ends in abortive draw, the honba count increases by one. After a non-East player wins, honba are reset.
For each honba, the score of winning hands are increased by 300 points:
- If won by self-draw (Tsumo), each player pays 100 points to the winner.
- If won by another player's discard (ron), the discarding player pays 300 points to the winner.
Dead Wall
During each round, 14 tiles are unable to be drawn (the round ends before they can be drawn). These 14 tiles are known as the dead wall. Because the dead wall exists, sometimes you will be unable to get a needed tile.
Dora
At the start of each round, a dora indicator is revealed. The tile after the revealed dora indicator is the dora tile. For every dora tile in your hand, you gain extra points (+1 han/tile).
For example, if is the dora indicator, is the dora. Having in your hand will increase your hand's value.
- Number tiles: , where indicator means is the dora.
- Dragons: -> -> ->
- Winds: -> -> -> -> (the same as the player order)
For each kan a player makes, a new dora indicator is revealed. If the new dora indicator is the same as another, then the specified tile is worth aother han.
Remember: A hand cannot win with no yaku, even if it has dora. A hand needs 1 yaku to win.
Uradora
If you declare riichi and win, the uradora are revealed. 1 uradora indicator is revealed for each regular dora indicator. Uradora indicators work like dora indicators (the tile after the indicator is the dora tile).
There is no way to know uradora before winning, so yradora are essentially random bonuses for winning with riichi. In general, ~30% of winning riichi hands contain at least 1 uradora.
Red Fives
In most modern riichi mahjong websites, red fives are used. There is one red five in each suit (a red 5 of characters, a red 5 of bamboo, a red 5 in dots).
Having the red five in your hand is worth extra points, just like a dora tile. Unlike dora, having the red five in your hand gives you value. (I.e. a red five in your hand does not make a 6 more valuable.)
If a red five is the dora/uradora indicator, nothing special happens; the 6 of that suit is still a regular dora as usual.
Scoring
The scoring system is very complex. New players should not worry about the scoring table, instead focusing on making a winning hands. When playing online, the computer will score hands for you, so there's no need to worry about scoring as an absolute beginner.
Here is how the scoring system works.
- A hand has a given value of "han" and a given value of "fu".
- Han: Each yaku has a specified amount of han. A hand can gain han for multiple different types of yaku. Also, for every dora in the hand, the hand gains +1 han. Add up the han from yaku and dora to get the total han value.
- Fu is based on the hand's composition. For example, having more triplets may increase fu count. Fu is always rounded up to the next multiple of 10 fu.
The more important factor, by far, is the amount of han. Fu generally does not vary much - most types of hand will gain 20-40 fu.
While the hand value will vary based on the fu count, here are the rough point values for each number of han in the hand:
- 1 han: 1000 points
- 2 han: 2000 points
- 3 han: 4000 points
- 4-5 han: 8000 points
- 6-7 han: 12000 points
- 8-10 han: 16000 points
- 11-12 han: 24000 points
- 13+ han: 32000 points
If you are the dealer, you gain x1.5 the points.
As you can see, from 1-4 han, each han you have doubles the hand's score. Therefore, 4 han hands are both valuable and efficient. Going from 1 han -> 4 han (a difference of +3 han) is worth x8 points, but going from 4 han -> 13 han (a massive difference of +9 han) is only worth x4 points.
Basic Strategy
A player completely new to riichi mahjong should focus on learning the gameplay, being able to make a winning hand, and learning the common yaku.
Once you've learned those, it's time for some more intermediate strategy. This article will cover 3 fundamental strategies:
Defense
Playing defensively means to discard tiles that other players are less likely to win off of. Often, but not always, playing defensively means giving up your own chance to win.
Defense is important for multiple reasons. When you discard another player's winning tile, you pay the full amount. If another player has a valuable hand, but you have a cheap and slow hand, then it is better to not deal in. Even if the player wins by self-draw, the amount you would pay is much less than the amount you'd pay by dealing in.
The most important part about defense is the furiten rule. To recap:
- A player cannot win off another's discard if they could win off any of their previously discarded tile.
- A player in riichi, if they decline their first possible win, may not win off another's discard for the rest of the hand.
- A player that is not in riichi, if they decline a win, cannot win until their next turn.
1. 100% Safe Tiles
- Any tile an opponent discarded is 100% safe against that player.
- After a player declares riichi, any tile anyone discards is safe against the riichi'ing player.
- The tile discarded by your left player this turn is 100% safe against everyone for this turn.
2. Already played honor tiles
Honor tiles cannot be used in sequences - they can only be used in pairs or triplets. Therefore, in order for a player to have a ready hand that waits on an honor tile, they almost always have to have said honor tile in their hand. ("Completing a pair" requires 1 tile in their hand; "completing a triplet" requires 2 tiles in their hand.)
- Therefore, if you can see all four copies of an honor tile, that honor tile is 99.9% safe. Because you can see all four copies of that tile, an opponent cannot have said honor tile in their hand, so they cannot wait on that tile. (A special hand called kokushi musou - the 13 Orphans - is the only way one can win off the 4th honor tile.)
- If you can see three copies of an honor tile, that tile is 99% safe. The only way for an opponent to win off an honor is if it'd complete a pair. A ready hand that waits to complete a pair is not common, plus they must be waiting on the exact copy of the honor tile, so that tile is very safe.
3. Suji
When a player has a ready hand, they are most likely waiting to complete a sequence. Knowing this, we can use the furiten to our advantage.
Notice that an incomplete sequence can wait for up to 2 tiles. waits on and ; waits on and . Also notice how these tiles are always 3-apart: 4 - 1 = 3, and 5 - 2 = 3.
Therefore, when a player is waiting for a tile, they are likely to also wait on a tile that is 3 apart.
Conversely, if a tile is 100% safe, then tiles that are 3-apart from that tile are safer than normal. Because it is likely for an opponent to wait on two tiles that are 3-apart, when a tile is safe, the tiles 3-apart also become safe.
- When you want to discard a tile numbered (1,2,3) or (7,8,9), a 100% safe tile that is 3-apart simply makes that tile safer. A discarded 4 makes 1 and 7 safer; a discarded 5 makes 2 and 8 safer.
- When you want to discard a tile numbered (4,5,6), these tiles are special - you need two types of 3-apart tiles to make these significantly safer. A discarded 1 on its own does not make 4 safer, but a discarded 1 and 7 does make 4 safer.
4. Blockade
There are 4 copies of a given type of tile. Therefore, when all 4 copies of a tile are visibly "used up", it is impossible for others to have that tile. Thus, it becomes impossible for an opponent to have a sequence with that tile.
So when all 4 copies of a type tile have been discarded, the tiles that are numbered further away from 5 become safer.
- When all four 3's are discarded, the 1 and 2 of that suit become safer.
- When all four 4's are discarded, the 2 and 3 of that suit become safer. (1 does not become safer.)
- When all four 5's are discarded, no tiles become safer.
A tile may be visibly used up when it is discarded, when it is in your own hand, when another player calls pon or kan, or when it's part of the dora indicators. For example: if three copies of the 3-man are discarded, and the fourth 3-man is in your hand, then 1-man and 2-man are safer. Three coipes are discarded; the fourth is in your own hand.