Betaori: Difference between revisions

Latest revision as of 08:14, 30 March 2025

A player in betaori 「ベタ降り」 ("folding" in English) aims to minimize the chance of dealing into other players' hands, often giving up the chance to win in the process. While a player in betaori can still lose points to tsumo and tenpai settlements, more points will be lost by dealing in.

Overview

Main article: Defense

When playing betaori, you should discard the safest tiles first. This means discarding genbutsu (100% safe tiles) before "relatively" safe tiles like suji and honors, even if it would break a group or pair. Defense is often done against a single player, such as a player who declared riichi, but there are many cases where defending against multiple players is required.

Safe tiles

Determining safe tiles requires deduction from visible tiles, including all discards, dora indicator, and the tiles in the player's own hand. Of course, it also requires the player's active decision to defend (as opposed to continuing to push the hand towards tenpai).

From safest to least safe, where danger rating = deal-in% during mid-game:

Genbutsu (0% danger): Tiles that would put a player in furiten are 100% safe against that player. This means any tile a player discards is 100% safe against that exact player. Also, after a player declares riichi, any tile anyone discards without a ron is 100% safe against the riichi-declarer.
Honors with 3-4 visible (0.2%/~0% danger): In order to win on an honor tile, the hand must either have a copy of that honor or wait on the rare (and easily spotted) kokushi musou. Therefore, 3-visible honors are extremely safe, 4-visible honors are practically 100% safe.
- Honors with 2 visible (1.5% danger if 1 discarded; 3-4% danger if 0 discarded): 2-visible honors are relatively safe, around suji. They are more dangerous in the late-game.
Kabe (1.5%-3% danger): When all four copies of a tile are visible, the same suit tiles towards the outside become safer kabe tiles. For example, if four 3-pin are visible, 1-pin and 2-pin are kabe tiles. This is because it is impossible for an opponent to have a ryanmen or kanchan wait on said tiles. Tiles towards the outside are safer.
Suji (1.5%-4.5% danger): When a tile is genbutsu, the same suit tiles 3-away are safer suji tiles. This is because the most common type of wait (ryanmen wait) wins off of tiles that are 3-apart, which suji "blocks". Note that 4/5/6 tiles are extra dangerous, so in order to be "full" suji, they require both 3-away tiles to be genbutsu. Tiles towards the outside are safer.
Sotogawa (3%-5% danger): When a tile is discarded early - within the first 6 or so discards - they are less likely to wait on same suit tiles outsisde the discard. For example, is 3-pin is discarded early, it's less likely for them to wait on 1-pin or 2-pin. This is because it's rare for an opponent to discard 3 from shapes like "233", "334", or "133", making a "23" or "34" in hand less likely.
One chance kabe (5%+ danger): When 3 copies of a tile are visible, tiles towards the outside are safer, similar to regular kabe. As dangerous as regular tiles in the late game.
Regular tiles (8-14%+ danger): Regular tiles are quite dangerous; honors and terminals are the safest, but even them are significantly more dangerous than suji.

When tiles are equally safe

If two tiles are equally safe, try to discard tiles that are more likely to be dangerous against the other players. For example, if both 6-pin and 1-pin are safe against a riichi player, discard 6-pin first. That way, if another player enters tenpai, the 1-pin in hand will be less dangerous.

If two tiles are still equally safe, it is best to discard a tile that does not reduce hand progress. After all, you can prevent opponents from winning by winning yourself.

Defending against 2+ players

Defending against two players is tricky, since defensive techniques like genbutsu and suji apply to each player individually.

Try to find genbutsu against 1 player (preferably the player who you want to deal into the least, e.g., the dealer), and of the tiles genbutsu against that player, find the tile safest against the other player. After a few turns, riichi furiten / temporary furiten should help generate tiles safe against both players.

Mawashi uchi

Mawashi uchi 「回し打ち」 is a strategy distinct to betaori. A "halfway" style, it aims to retain 1-shanten while discarding relatively safe tiles (e.g., suji, sotogawa tiles). A player undergoing mawashi will discard relatively safe tiles, even at the cost of tile acceptance.

When undergoing mawashi, you should constantly evaluate if you should be folding. If a dangerous tile is drawn and can't be used in the hand, mawashi will often convert to betaori (or sometimes convert to full pushing). If it gets too late in the round, it may also be good to fold, as it is easier to deal in when late in the round. Conversely, if you hit tenpai in a reasonable timeframe, pushing is generally good.

Because mawashi requires good push/fold judgement, it is recommended to learn how to betaori properly before mawashi (new players may discard recklessly, claiming it is "mawashi").

External links

Basic Defense Techniques in Mahjong

Written work on defense in Osamuko

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-'''Betaori''' {{kana|ベタ降り}} ("folding" in English) is a strategy which aims to minimize the chance of [[ron|dealing into]] other players' hands. Usually, a player will abandon the prospect of winning themselves. While points can be lost via opponent [[tsumo]] or at [[ryuukyoku]], you'd lose less points from these than by dealing in.
+A player in '''betaori''' {{kana|ベタ降り}} ("'''folding'''" in English) aims to minimize the chance of [[ron|dealing into]] other players' hands, often giving up the chance to win in the process. While a player in betaori can still lose points to [[tsumo]] and [[ryuukyoku|tenpai settlements]], more points will be lost by dealing in.
-==Determining safe tiles==
+==Overview==
 {{main|Defense}}
-When playing betaori, you should discard the safest tiles. For example, if an opponent declares [[riichi]], you should discard safe tiles against that player. This requires deduction from visible tiles, including all discards, dora indicator, and the tiles in the player's own hand. Of course, it also requires the player's active decision to defend (as opposed to continuing to push the hand towards tenpai).
-===Genbutsu and furiten===
+When playing betaori, you should discard the safest tiles first. This means discarding [[genbutsu]] (100% safe tiles) before "relatively" safe tiles like [[suji]] and [[honor]]s, even if it would break a group or pair. Defense is often done against a single player, such as a player who declared [[riichi]], but there are many cases where defending against multiple players is required.
-{{main|Furiten}}
-'''Genbutsu''' {{kana|現物}} is a term for "safe tile" due to [[furiten]]. Tiles made safe by the furiten rule are the safest tiles against that particular player.
+===Safe tiles===
+Determining safe tiles requires deduction from visible tiles, including all discards, dora indicator, and the tiles in the player's own hand. Of course, it also requires the player's active decision to defend (as opposed to continuing to push the hand towards tenpai).
-There are three types of furiten:
+From safest to least safe, where danger rating = deal-in% during mid-game:
-*Discard furiten: If a player has discarded any tile they could've won off of, they are in furiten. Thus, any tile that a player discarded is 100% safe against that player.
+* [[Genbutsu]] (0% danger): Tiles that would put a player in [[furiten]] are 100% safe against that player. This means any tile a player discards is 100% safe against that exact player. Also, after a player declares riichi, any tile ''anyone'' discards without a ron is 100% safe against the riichi-declarer.
-*Temporary furiten: If a non-riichi hand declines a win, the player is in furiten until their next discard. This means that the tile discarded by the your left player is 100% safe against  everyone for that turn only. The tile discarded by the player across from you is 100% safe against your right player, again for that turn only.
+* [[Honor]]s with 3-4 visible (0.2%/~0% danger): In order to win on an honor tile, the hand must either have a copy of that honor or wait on the rare (and easily spotted) [[kokushi musou]]. Therefore, 3-visible honors are extremely safe, 4-visible honors are practically 100% safe.
-*Riichi furiten: If a riichi hand declines a win, the player is in furiten for the rest of a hand. So after a player declares riichi, any tile discarded by anyone is 100% safe against the riichi.
+** [[Honor]]s with 2 visible (1.5% danger if 1 discarded; 3-4% danger if 0 discarded): 2-visible honors are relatively safe, around suji. They are more dangerous in the late-game.
+* [[Kabe]] (1.5%-3% danger): When all four copies of a tile are visible, the same suit tiles towards the outside become safer kabe tiles. For example, if four 3-pin are visible, 1-pin and 2-pin are kabe tiles. This is because it is impossible for an opponent to have a [[ryanmen]] or [[kanchan]] wait on said tiles. Tiles towards the outside are safer.
+* [[Suji]] (1.5%-4.5% danger): When a tile is [[genbutsu]], the same suit tiles 3-away are safer ''suji'' tiles. This is because the most common type of wait ([[ryanmen]] wait) wins off of tiles that are 3-apart, which suji "blocks". Note that 4/5/6 tiles are extra dangerous, so in order to be "full" suji, they require both 3-away tiles to be genbutsu. Tiles towards the outside are safer.
+* [[Sotogawa]] (3%-5% danger): When a tile is discarded early - within the first 6 or so discards - they are less likely to wait on same suit tiles outsisde the discard. For example, is 3-pin is discarded early, it's less likely for them to wait on 1-pin or 2-pin. This is because it's rare for an opponent to discard 3 from shapes like "233", "334", or "133", making a "23" or "34" in hand less likely.
+* [[One chance]] kabe (5%+ danger): When 3 copies of a tile are visible, tiles towards the outside are safer, similar to regular kabe. As dangerous as regular tiles in the late game.
+* Regular tiles (8-14%+ danger): Regular tiles are quite dangerous; honors and terminals are the safest, but even them are significantly more dangerous than suji.
-If genbutsu is not available, then defensive strategies like [[suji]] and/or [[kabe]] should be employed to determine the tile least likely to deal in.
+===When tiles are equally safe===
+If two tiles are equally safe, try to discard tiles that are more likely to be dangerous against the other players. For example, if both 6-pin and 1-pin are safe against a riichi player, discard 6-pin first. That way, if another player enters tenpai, the 1-pin in hand will be less dangerous.
-If two tiles are equally safe, try to discard tiles that are less likely to be dangerous against other players. For example, if both 6-pin and 1-pin are safe against a riichi player, discard 6-pin first. That way, if another player declares riichi, the 1-pin is less dangerous.
+If two tiles are still equally safe, it is best to discard a tile that does not reduce hand progress. After all, you can prevent opponents from winning by winning yourself.
+===Defending against 2+ players===
+Defending against two players is tricky, since defensive techniques like genbutsu and suji apply to each player individually.
+Try to find [[genbutsu]] against 1 player (preferably the player who you want to deal into the least, e.g., the [[dealer]]), and of the tiles genbutsu against that player, find the tile safest against the other player. After a few turns, riichi furiten / temporary furiten should help generate tiles safe against both players.
-If two tiles are still equally safe, it is best to discard a tile that does not reduce hand progress. After all, you can prevent opponents from winning by winning yourself.
+==Mawashi uchi==
+'''Mawashi uchi''' {{kana|回し打ち}} is a strategy distinct to betaori. A "halfway" style, it aims to retain 1-shanten while discarding relatively safe tiles (e.g., [[suji]], [[sotogawa]] tiles). A player undergoing mawashi will discard relatively safe tiles, even at the cost of tile acceptance.
-==Mawashiuchi==
+When undergoing mawashi, you should constantly evaluate if you should be folding. If a dangerous tile is drawn and can't be used in the hand, mawashi will often convert to betaori (or sometimes convert to full pushing). If it gets too late in the round, it may also be good to fold, as it is easier to deal in when late in the round. Conversely, if you hit tenpai in a reasonable timeframe, pushing is generally good.
-'''Mawashi uchi''' {{kana|回し打ち}} is a strategy distinct to betaori. A "halfway" style, it aims to retain 1-shanten while discarding relatively safe tiles (e.g. [[suji]], [[sotogawa]] tiles). A player undergoing mawashi will discard relatively safe tiles, even at the cost of tile acceptance.
-When undergoing mawashi, you should constantly evaluate if you should be folding. If a dangerous tile is drawn and can't be used in the hand, mawashi usually is converted to betaori. If it gets too late in the round, it may also be good to fold (it is easier to deal in when late in the round). Conversely, if you hit tenpai in a reasonable timeframe, pushing is generally good.
+Because mawashi requires good push/fold judgement, it is recommended to learn how to betaori properly before mawashi (new players may discard recklessly, claiming it is "mawashi").
 ==External links==